TopaTopa Lodge Camp with a Summit of Hines & Cream Puff

TopaTopa Lodge Camp

Okay it has been entirely to long since my last post. Work, family functions and a few other things have had me sidelined for a bit. I thought it would be nice to come back with a bang so here's a big one that's been on the list for sometime now. What's that you ask ? Well how about another forgotten Camp in the LP, would you expect anything less from me ?

From my data collection I have not seen TopaTopa Lodge Camp appear on LP Recreation Maps since 1972. (Though I am missing some years) I imagine sometime very shortly after that it was removed from the Forest Service inventory. The Camp did make appearances in some of the earlier maps dating back to the 30's. Notice it pictured above in the 1969 edition. (Click image to enlarge). According to some of Craig R Carey's earlier writings the Camp was once a staple destination for local Santa Paula and Ojai folks that frequented the Last Chance Trail. While there are multiple ways to reach the Lodge, with daylight being scarce now, if we were going to have any chance at taking down Hines and Cream Puff in the same day as well our best option was gonna be from Nordhoff Ridge Road. Driving up this route from Rose Valley Campground requires a permit from the Forest Service. You can pick them up at the Ojai Ranger district office and reservations can be made up to 2 weeks in advance. 4 wheel drive is required. The Locked Gate is accessed from Camp Site #2

Rose Valley Campground

From my recollection it was about a 10 mile drive along the steep, narrow, rutted dirt road to reach the far Eastern Gate that begins the Red Reef Trail, it was here we parked the car to start our proposed loop. When driving up from Rose Valley keep to the left at the multiple junctions, within a half mile from the destination you Pass Elder Camp to your left. While the road is in fairly good shape the beginning climb is the worst, I had to make two attempts at one particular bad section. (basically a well shit that didn't work lets back down this spot and try again).

Elder Camp

Park in the turn out here adjacent the gate.

Notice the sign above referring to the junction with Last Chance Trail in 2.5 miles, I don't think that is actually historically correct. That junction in reality was 21W20 the short Connector trail that dropped down between Hines and Cream Puff to gain the Last Chance Trail. Technically speaking from this location the LC Trail starts along Red Reef much closer. (approximately one mile in where the trail climbs to the northern terminus of the bluff.  If none of that made sense scroll back up and take another look at the 69 map. Ignoring the Red Reef trail for now walk back down the road from which you just came in a very short .1 of a mile there is a well defined spur trail that climbs up to the southern end of the Bluff. You gain about 900 feet elevation in .8 of a mile to reach the Top. While not far distance wise it definitely gets the blood pumping and takes the chill off the morning air. Once atop the Bluff take few minutes have a seat on the stone bench and enjoy the incredible views.

Great lookout from TopaTopa bluff

Once you have had your fill continue east along the Bluff in less than 500 feet hang a hard right south and onto the Last Chance Trail 21W09. No sign marks the trail but it is fairly easy to make out. I can tell you right now I was expecting far worse than what we got. For a trail that receives little to no maintenance the first 1 to 1.5 miles was pretty uneventful and easy to follow. Yeah there is some tight brushy spots but nothing really to complain over, bonus you get a real nice perspective of upper Santa Paula Canyon, Hines, and the Topa Topa Ridge toward the tower.

How beautiful is that ?

Along that first 2 mile section I was pondering why more people don't attempt this loop considering the current trail conditions, eventually I got the answer. That smooth sailing I spoke about earlier  ends in a brush fight for the last 1 to 1.5 miles into TopaTopa Lodge. You can pick up bits and pieces of the old trail however it's basically a pick your own path through thick Ceanothus, Manzanita, Chamise Etc, Etc. I'm sure you get the point after popping out and into the Lodge my face looked like I had been in a cat fight. 

Jeff and Reece coming down one of the nicer of the bad sections

There are 3 main tributaries you will cross that come together up here to form the Main Santa Paula Canyon watershed, all 3 had enough water to filter with the best water coming from the Connector just North of Topa Topa Lodge. I have included the waypoints on the google map below and as well in the downloadable GPX & KMZ files.

Arriving at the Lodge we really didn't need to do much the Camp was in pretty good shape. We stood up one of the 2 Ice Can stoves that had fallen over and left a brand new camp shovel, courtesy of LT. I wasn't given permission to use his full name but you know who you are and thanks brother for the generous tool donation. If you're reading this lets get out there soon. The Camp has a nice sized fire ring with cooking grate. While maybe not the most glamourous of places as it sits in a rather exposed location the condition of those Large stoves are amazing, I can never get enough of these forgotten Camps. If you haven't been I suggest you go.

Me showcasing the new shovel that Reece lugged into Camp

Great view from Camp looking down the canyon

Finding the Camp was great but the day was far from over we still had 3 big uphill slogs to attend to before we could rest our feet back at the car, with the first segment being to continue the last 1/4 mile along LC to meet up with and climb the last mile (give or take) of 21W20 back up and onto Red Reef . In a nutshell from the Lodge you can figure about 1200 Feet elevation Gain up to the ridge. Getting over to the connector from the lodge is a little tricky, if you stick to the old trail proper it will weave you rather nicely through the thick surrounding brush. If you don't, well then plan on a lot of unnecessary bushwacking. Surprisingly the Camp is well hidden, you can't really see it at all from the connector, which would explain why more folks dont bother trying to attempt a visit. Really the best view down on the Lodge from the top is from Cream Puff see photo below, brown flat patch in the middle is TopaTopa Lodge Camp.

View down from Cream Puff onto TopaTopa Lodge

Looking east at Hines Peak from 21W20

View from Red Reef looking back down 21W20

Again here as before if you are diligent in following the old trail climbing the connector proper is not to bad. I will say it is easier to access the lodge from the North rather than from below. I suspect those upper trails get much more use. From the ridge we hung a right headed North east and in less than a Half mile we were at the Sign pictured below which is precisely where you want to begin climbing the spine of Hines.

Front view

Back Side looking better than the front.

The trek up Hines is short but steep. You reach the top only to find out it is a false Summit and you must go a little farther. The Views from the summit proper are not as good in my opinion as the false one as they are more obstructed by brush. Make your way to the outskirts and you will find much better photo opportunities. A summit register can awaits as does a USGS Survey marker. I believe this one is a sierra club HPS Hike.

Hines Summit Register

Down there lies the Sespe

Killer view down Santa Paula Canyon & SP Peak

Reece skiing down hines

After Hines we stopped for a bit of lunch out of the wind and recharged our batteries up next would be Cream Puff. We now preceded west along Red Reef back toward the connector this time passing it. In .7 of a mile we reached the entry for Cream Puff. As you can see from the photo below the hike up is similar to Hines a little shorter but definitely no less steep.

Cream Puff is an SVS Peak (Seldom Visited Site). From my knowledge John Wilson (Pine Tar) and crew placed 10 of these SVS register cans in remote corners of the Los Padres. Last one I encountered was atop Cedar Peak along the Thorn Point Ridge. This Summit has no name on maps. Why it got the label Cream Puff I have no clue, but I bet my friend Kim Coakley knows.  

Views from Cream Puff

Looking back down onto the Red Reef

Back down off CP we just continued westward the last few easy miles of  RR 21W08 to complete the loop back to the Car. Not the longest of days with the total mileage being only 10, however definitely well earned. The register on Cream Puff talks about completing the Topa Triple, where one starts hiking from the bottom of Sisar road up to the bluff then onto Hines and Cream Puff. So maybe one can consider this the Topa Quad, we didn't hike up Sisar but we added the Lodge and extra miles along the LC to make up for it. 

Download GPX File

Download KMZ file

Chief Peak By Way of Horn Canyon

Chief Peak

Feeling trapped inside the last month from work and rain to say I was eager to get outside would be a bit of an understatement. Surely some long miles and some good old fashion butt kicking elevation gain would cure what was ailing me. Joined with eric_hikes84 we decided to tackle Chief Peak Via the Horn Canyon Trail (22W08), which takes off from behind thatcher school in Ojai. Signage is not very good for finding the parking area, if you make a right on the first paved street before the school (McAndrew Rd) you can follow that for .2 mile through a residential neighborhood then hang a left on forest route 5N10 also called Horn Canyon road and in .4 mile or less you arrive at the Trail-head CLICK HERE FOR HORN CYN PARKING GOOGLE MAP. There is parking in front of the Trail-Head sign and multiple spots along the road in front of the white gate. One Portable toilet is located adjacent to the Trail-head sign hiding among the trees.

Horn Canyon Trail-Head

Trail-Head facilities 

Parking Area

Alternatively if you miss the  residential right turn and end up driving straight on to the school grounds stay heading right on Thatcher Road and pass the staff parking lot shorty on your right you will see a small sign that reads Horn Canyon Trail Access (see photos below). Across from that sign to your left is another dirt parking area. The walk from here to the Trail-Head is short less than .2 mile. Keep in mind You will have to cross the creek if you end up parking here. Currently water is really flowing good along Thatcher creek, but a high clearance 4 wheel drive vehicle could by pass this parking area and drive straight on thatcher Road directly to the Trail-Head. (My mileage on this trip starts from this alternate parking area).

Horn Canyon Trail access sign

Alternate parking area near the school

Thatcher Road Creek crossing

According to the Fine folks over at Hike Los Padres this trail was one of the early major routes used by hunters, campers, and fisherman to travel from Ojai to the Sespe River. The trail is well maintained and easy to follow. Come prepared for a work out, it is an all out uphill battle to the top of Horn Canyon. Sections of the trail become steep and narrow, you will cross the creek 4 times. Unless you have perfected the trekking pole catapult method your getting your boots wet.

Beginning your accent of horn Canyon, the valley is so nice and green right now

Look at the flow along Thatcher Creek I'm loving our current water situation

Around 1.3 miles in you will pass what looks to be the ruins of an old cabin. I have no idea what this building once was so if anyone reading this does please leave a comment. 

Cabin Ruins and Lacy with her new Ruffwear jacket

Eric making his way up the canyon

Hello Ojai what a view

This was my first hike with Eric and I'll admit I pushed the pace hard and fast all the way up to Sisar Rd. I Wanted to see what he was made of. He had some initial reservations about his current fitness level and I'm a bit hesitant these days about going out with new people. However by the end the day I knew I could hike with Eric anytime, he did well and was great trail company. 

The Pines Camp Overview

The Pines site #1 

Looking Down on The Pines Camp from above

Around 1800 feet of elevation gain and 2.8 miles later you come to The Pines Camp. This was once a beautiful Conifer shaded trail Camp with water piped in from a spring behind it and some fancy wood worked benches courtesy of the fire Department. Today it is none of those things. I was saddened to see the current state of affairs here. Fires, previous droughts and bark beetles have destroyed the trees. The trough was dry and the piping from the spring is no longer viable. ( If camping here plan on bringing your own water as access will not be convenient from Camp). Currently there are 3 sites available, site 1 and 2 have the camp grills. Site 3 has only a rock fire ring. The camp is in desperate need of brushing, so you will want to be extra careful with your campfire and tent placement under one of the few remaining burned pines might not be the best idea. I'm all in for helping bring this camp back to life should the LPFA consider a project here. Or maybe even some ambitious boy scouts could spruce it back up. Many years ago the forest service established a tree nursery here and the students of Thatcher School have taken part in the replanting of trees. Fingers crossed that hopefully something is in the works. 

The Pines site #2

The Pines site #3

 Dry Trough and definitely no water coming out of that spigot 

After leaving The Pines it's back to the grind. Another 1500 feet of elevation gain in under 2 miles and you reach the junction with Sisar Road. (mile marker 4.6). Hang a left here and its all fire roads for the rest of the way until the spur trail that takes you too the Peak.

Horn Cyn & Sisar Rd Junction

Sisar and Nordhoff junction

Following Sisar Road in just under a mile you connect with Nordhoff Ridge road. Again stay left and continue onto Nordhoff Rd. The walk along this ridge is exposed however this time of year the weather was perfect and the sun rays were welcoming. As you make your way toward Chief your gifted with  some really nice views of the surrounding area. Also right now just about every tributary coming off this range had flowing water as did the spring pond directly below Chief Peak.

A Look at Chief Peak from Nordhoff Ridge

Spring Pond under the summit of Chief Peak

As you start to make your way directly under the peak and at about 7.1 miles in on your left side look for the spur trail/possibly maybe old Dozer cut.(N34° 30' 19.2" W119° 10' 16.8") Here exit the fire road and follow this route onto the ridge and up to the Summit. Note: trail is not well defined it's kind of a pick your own path. The last section of less than .3 mile is a bit of a scramble, use caution if you have your dog with you. I had to zig zag a bit and carefully plan my accent to make sure my pup could get up without hurting her paws. As you can see from the map below I exited a little different line than I went up, again only because I had to keep my pup safe.

Exit fire road here notice the stacked rocks marking the spur trail

The Boulder Scramble

View North from Chief Peak toward the Sespe

As would be expected the views from the summit were incredible especially down toward the Sespe. One thing to note is the Plastic summit register can appears to have had some small holes chewed in it. All of the old entry's are now soaked with water. If you plan on visiting here please bring along a new register can.

Summit register

USGS Survey Marker

Stats for the day according to my Garmin put us at 15.2 miles round trip with 4,739 feet of elevation gain. Sore legs YES I had them the next day. By most standards this one is a beast. 

Obligatory Summit Pic

Eric in the clouds

Don't wait for the weather to get to hot, if this one is on your short list go get it. Currently the combo of water and weather cant be beat. I had an absolute blast as usual Lost In The Los Padres. Click on any picture to enlarge it, GPS track and KMZ file are available for download below. If you got comments please leave them I love hearing from you all.

Download GPS Track - GPS Units

Download KMZ File - Google Earth