Monday, April 22, 2019

Last Chance Camp (For real this time)


If you have been following my blog then you know back in March I found what I thought was the only two different sites that over the many years have been associated with the fabled Last Chance Camp. In my previous post I detailed the route in from lower Santa Paula Canyon and the many attractions one can find along 21W09 (The Last Chance Trail).  If you missed that write please see it here: https://christopherplord.blogspot.com/2019/03/last-chance-camp.html. Weeks later I was still relishing in my victory over finding the camp when I got served up a big dose of reality from KC. Turns out I missed the original site by less than 100 feet. His pictures of the large boulder and the original ice can stove indicative of the camp were proof. My heart sank, all the hard work I put in, I couldn't believe it. How the hell could that have happened. I've studied just about every old map of Last Chance going back decades and I thought I had thoroughly searched the area of where the original site should have been. I even found a piece of that stove at the lower spot I had labeled site #1. At the time it seemed like a slam dunk, case closed. (All the while though I did wonder a little why I never found a large boulder directly on any of the sites I was at). There was though a large rock really close to what I labeled site #2, it was surrounded by thick brush so just assumed that was probably the one others had made mention of in the past. KC sent a waypoint I examined it on google earth, it was in the middle of a brush choked creek drainage that I had walked within feet of. The camp could not have been there. I plead my case had a little back and forth with him on how I found part of the stove and probably just missed the boulder. Picturing the area in question in my head was hard to grasp how I could have missed The main Camp. KC was gracious but in the end he held strong on the fact that he believed I missed the target, and deep inside I knew it as well. I slept horrible that night. I hate getting things wrong. It is not easy to get to Last Chance and back in a day but I knew that was exactly where I was heading. We were all set the following day to try another summit attempt on Cayetano. My compadres got a last minute text saying change of plans were going back to Last Chance. One more time I pulled up google earth inserted my prior track and all the relevant camp waypoints I had made on the last trip. Pulled up KC's pictures and started to line up the surrounding mountain features in the background of his photo versus google earth close ups and that's when it all came together. I noticed a small flat on the west side of the drainage where the old trail crosses the creek to head toward Hines Peak. Zoomed in and all be damned if the mountains features didn't line up perfect. All the the maps had it wrong. Every where I have ever looked showed last Chance Camp on the east side. All my sacred 1960's Rec maps WRONG. Over the years I can easily imagine now how countless folks would have never found this main site. The maps lead you directly to what I had labeled site #1 and site #2. Lackluster spots with little fire rings. If you were just going  up from the lower Santa Paula Canyon and back you would have no reason to even attempt to try and cross that brush filled creek and the views are somewhat restrictive. If you didn't go out of your way trying to see across you could easily never spot it. I won't go into detail again of my route in this time but I have included a map below, my new GPX track for download and of course the new photos of the original Last Chance Camp. Total mileage for the day came to 18. The Fog was thick and made navigation exceedingly difficult but we got it done.

Last Chance Main Camp at this site you find a large rock fire ring, couple old McLeod tools and a very weathered Ice can stove. 
That infamous large boulder indicative of the original camp

The brush surrounding the Camp has made a healthy comeback since the Day Fire

Camp overview with Reece Pictured above.

A look down onto the fire Ring

The Creek located about 25 feet from the Main site was flowing

I'm now of the opinion that my photos above show the original Forest Service Last Chance Camp and that Site #1 and site #2 on my first outing were most likely either overflow spots or later guerrilla sites set up by others who came through the area. The only bit that still troubles me besides every map having it located in the wrong spot is that the door of the old ice can stove was found down on the lower site #1. Why would someone drag just the door of the stove over there from the main Camp. You would think they would have drug the main body of the stove and left the door. Possible conclusions could be that there was at one time 2 different stoves. One at each site, or maybe the original site was the lower one and they drug the stove main body up to "The New Main site." I  may never know for sure but I am satisfied with my new current assessment and grateful for the help of the more experienced and knowledgeable folks like Kim, Craig, Mark and Bryan who have continually made themselves available to assist me on my journey's into the Los Padres.

The older site register can is rusted badly and in bad shape, water has damaged the entry's. We sealed it back up as good as we could and positioned it back in the ice can stove where we found it. Some of the papers might be salvageable if the next camper takes the time to properly dry them out in the sun. However the site now also has the new register can pictured below.

New Can hidden under the boulder

#1 "Lost In The Lost Padres" site Can with $25 dollar REI Gift Card


I will now from time to time be leaving these baby blue "Lost In The Lost Padres" site register cans pictured above at hard to reach and seldom visited sites in The Los Padres. (Those in the know, yes I did steal this brilliant idea from Pinetar's SVS cans). I hope it will encourage others to keep trying to visit the forgotten places and not let the memory of these historic sites fade away. While it is true some of these areas can be very challenging to access one can't help but feel a great sense of pride and accomplishment after putting in all the work and arriving at the destination. I left a $25 dollar REI gift card in this first can placed here at Last Chance Camp for the next person who visits to use and enjoy. Below is a few more photos of the days adventure.

Almost stepped on this gopher snake across the trail and apparently there be big bears in this part of the forest.

Looking down toward the Punch bowl

Ever so beautiful Jackson Hole

Eric navigating up the steep grassy ridge 

Santa Paula Creek

 

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Monday, April 1, 2019

Santa Paula Peak & first attempt at San Cayetano Mtn

Santa Paula Peak in the center 


So before summer roles around and the Los Padres becomes a steaming inferno I will be gunning to knock a few peaks off my list. I've had my eye on Santa Paula and San Cayetano for some time now. By accident or design I am not certain but Fillmore has succeeded in making access to certain trails in the Los Padres difficult and these two peaks are no exception. My decades old prized possession LPNF Maps do show forest route 4N02 leading up toward San Cayetano from Grand avenue and connecting to 20W15 however that has long since now landed on private property. I did read about Stillman trying a route near that once but he was stopped by an impenetrable wall of brush and some 100 degree temps. Santa Paula Peak was once also a popular spot for locals with the two main routes being the East fork of Santa Paula Creek 21W11 and Timber Canyon to 20W16. Herein lies the next problem the old East Fork trail is extremely over grown and washed out leaving that route for the die hards and the newer property owners, unlike the previous ones have blocked public access to Timber Canyon to all but a select few that they choose to share the gate codes with. I've been told mostly search and rescue. Fortunately for me I was granted access, so with that boots on and to the hills we went.

First Look at Santa Paula Peak From Timber Cyn


Before I start into my normal route instructions I want to emphasize that this is private property and should be respected as such. Please do not attempt this route without the proper permissions and access codes to the multiple locked gates that need navigating to the old Trail-head. This write up serves to help those folks that have been granted access. All others should reach this peak from the mouth of Santa Paula Canyon travelling up the East Fork. 

The trail starts here between the two Oak Trees
Pictured above between the two Oaks is where the Trail begins, there is an adjacent area wide enough to turn your truck around and park here. The road starts as paved and eventually turns into a very narrow channel dirt rutted road between high brush. With all the currents rains it was in worse shape than it had been in the past. Without 4 wheel drive in my truck I was forced to park about .7 mile further down from the actual Trail-head which in turn added some unplanned distance to what was an already planned long day. 




Right out the gate the peak looms over head and looks a lot closer than it actually is. Most of the distance comes from the old trail switching back and forth across the whole southern face. The wildflowers in the lower portions were out in full force and really added some pretty contrast to the hills. 

Good look at the terrain you should expect coming up from the south face

Reece found a nice spot for a break

Outstanding views along the whole way up to SP Peak
The Santa Paula peak trail no longer receives maintenance and as one would expect is not easily followed for the casual hiker. Nature as fully taken back the trail in most places. However the Thomas fire has opened up the whole area leaving mostly at max just knee high brush to contented with. Most folks with off trail experience should have no trouble getting to the top. You will want to mind your steps though as travel is mostly along steep rocky, bushy, uneven surface. A small slip here has the potential to be really bad. This jaunt is no walk in the park all the way in is an uphill grind you will gain a good amount of elevation quickly (aproximetly 3300 to SP), there is no water so pack accordingly. From where I parked it was about 4.2 miles one way to the top. You can shorten that .7 mile each way if you drive all the way in. 

Thanks Reece for capturing this shot


Rock Fire Ring at the Guerrilla site

Overview of the Guerrilla Camp

About 2.8 miles in to the west of the trail is a little guerrilla site with rock fire ring. Possibly used by hunters or maybe just overnight campers wanting to hunker down out of the wind. Even further up the trail pictured below is a nice port-a-potty should the need arise. 

Trail facilities

Evidence of the Thomas Fire

About 4 miles in just before 20W16 starts to head down the backside toward 20W15 is an unmarked spur trail that will lead you up to the Peak. Spur coordinates - (N34° 26' 22.1" W119° 00' 28.2")

Picture on the summit of the register box and some metal left from the fire lookout tower

Memorial Plaque on Sp Peak

USGS Marker

The 360 degree views from Santa Paula peak are damn good. Arguably some of the best. Probably why at one time there was a great fire lookout tower up here. Which I believe burned in the wheeler fire but don't quote me on that. I could see the Channel Islands, all of Santa Paula, Fillmore and pretty much every other prominent peak and land mark of the surrounding area. I was impressed and would have enjoyed staying longer had we not had to get to our next intended destination. Couple of the many Summit views pictured below.



After signing the register and having a snack we quickly high tailed it down the spur trail and back along 20W16 now making our way further along the trail and down the north side. The going here is easy through the burned area with the trail well defined. Right around the 4.7 mile mark is the junction with San Cayetano 20W15.  Here the Santa Paula Peak Trail cuts west to head down toward Cienega Camp and meet with the East Fork 21W11. San Cayetano (our intended route) heads to the east. 

Looking down the East Fork where lies Cienega Camp.

That old rusty McLeod marks the junction with San Cayetano Trail.

For the most part up to this point we were optimistic about reaching San Cayetano Mtn. Shortly after merging onto 20W15 we quickly realized that this old trail is long gone and I mean bad shape, following any semblance of this trail was not gonna happen. However we were fine with that as the Thomas fire completely opened up this stretch to where we could follow the general path and create our own route if needed to the ridge toward SC. Our luck began to change though when we ran into a wall of Poodle Dog bush. Instead of continuing to switch back down along parts of where the old trail once was through that crap we opted for an abrupt right turn shooting straight down the ravine through a opening in the poodle dog and back up and out the other side. 

Poodle Dog brush wall

Boulder Creek

Reece Climbing out of boulder Creek

To our surprise at the bottom of the ravine we found Boulder Creek flowing with nice cool water. At this point our progress began to slow considerably. Once out and atop the ridge again we picked our way along. The nice open burn area I spoke about became less and less and we soon were battling thick brush. The problem on this ridge toward SC is it becomes razor thin. The Top and north side are impenetrable apparently missed by the Thomas Fire. The south side is much less brushy but it's steep and dangerous to keep going up and down along the ridge clinging to it's slope was just unsafe. The original 20W15 never intended to take you to the summit here, it would have lead you down the north side and eventually out at Grand Avenue, so I figured on it being rough but that was an understatement. As much as it hurt we knew that at this pace we would not have enough daylight to get this done. We were by now getting tired and had already taken a good brush beating. Not to mention I was covered head to toe in black soot. We ended up calling it less than a mile from San Cayetano Mountain Summit. With the worst section still being in front of us. So close yet so far, dammit I was crushed.


Example of the thick brush we were experiencing

Click photo to enlarge, black arrow shows about where we quit
New register can that I had hoped to place on San Cayetano

So with that we made our way back out the way the same way we came in. Just under 12 was our total mileage for the day with about 4600 feet of total elevation gain. (though it felt like much more) The black arrow in the photo above shows about where we quit with San Cayetano mountain east of that. By no means am I done with Cayetano. That shiny new register can I made up is going to get to the top of that mountain. Currently I am looking at a different approach from Fillmore. If that does work out I will be back on this same ridge dressed for battle, starting much earlier in the morning with with loppers in hand and a smaller pack. Come hell or high water I will stand at the summit eventually.

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