Thursday, May 21, 2020

Cobblestone Mountain Trail 18W03

19W10 to 18W03
Legends of forgotten camps and abandoned trails in the far eastern corner of the Sespe Wilderness have been a topic of discussion for ages. Add to this years of Cartographic nightmares and a lack of any real online beta of what exists and what doesn't and ones left scratching their head. My interest in this matter really piqued after finding a VC  Canyoneering post from 2010 titled "The Most Remote Campsite in the Southern Los Padres." From Bryan's list in the comments section Halfway Spring would hold the top spot with Borracho in 4th. Even Cove got a mention at number 9, though I reckon the Agua Blanca was in rougher shape back then. All three of these camps just so happen to be obtainable by loop trip linking Agua Blanca 19W10 and Cobblestone 18W03 (what's left of them) if one has the grit and determination to see it through. Craig Carey's Diamonds in the Rough: Roll Call followed by Series 18 West would only further throw fuel to the fire. Let's not forget Saddle Skirt, Ellis Apiary and Cobblestone Spring Camps, rarely do those ever get a visit. Any evidence left of Tin Can Cabin? What if any remains of Halfway & Borracho? Are you seeing a pattern here? The observer is often left with more questions than answers.

Old Stove Kim Found on the ridge above Halfway Spring December 2010 (N34.58007° W118.81252°)
Naturally I began to dig for information. I contacted maybe better term pestered all the who's who of the Los Padres that I knew. What I wanted more than anything was a single old photo of Halfway or Borracho. Hell I would have been happy with even a description from someone who had actually seen them. Remember the Forest Service abandoned 18W03 in the 60's and it was said to be rough then, just imagine now. Gagnon wrote of slated Camp removals in the 70's. Would I fight my way through all that brush only to find the camps had in fact been removed or destroyed in the Day Fire? I was able to obtain bits of info but nothing to confirm their existence. Most leads were dead ends or recommendations to get in touch with Kim Coakley (SVS crew) a legendary man of the mountain, he may know. Mark Subbotin was gracious enough to put me in contact with Kim after a series of emails we finally had a nice long phone conversation about our adventures in the forest. Kim had in fact traveled through the area in question but it had been over a decade. He shared some great photos of Cobblestone Spring Camp and water flowing from the Spring at Halfway but admitted never finding the camp, in fact a stove he found high on the ridge gave him the impression it may have been taken from Halfway Spring at one point or another. No pictures and a faint memory of what if any was ever at Borracho. I thanked Kim for taking the time to speak with me and we stayed in touch often by email vowing to get together for a walk the next time he was in town.

  Carol Day with Kim and crew at Borracho July 2004

Fast forward to the November 2019 Agua Blanca Trail maintenance with Alan Coles and crew where I was able to make the acquaintance of Carol Day. Carol's no stranger when it comes to the more remote sections of the LP. We share a passion for the history of the Forest and she promised to send me whatever photos she could dig out from her earlier adventures (Many with Kim). Attached in her email along with other wonderful images was a couple shots from 2004, she's standing at Borracho next to an Ice Can Stove. I was stoked, finally photo evidence. Best of all the man in the picture above with his back turned is Kim Coakley. 15 years had passed, memories were hazy. A conversation ensued "Hey Kim check out these pics of Borracho." "Chris that's me in the photo what year was that taken?" "2004 Carol found them." "Wow I had completely forgotten about those stoves.  I need to go back and see them again"  I'm ready when you are Kim."

Dough Flat Trailhead
Good water flowing from Squaw Spring right now
Blooming Yucca
Friday morning Reece and I met up at the Dough Flat Trailhead to make the 5.5 mile hike into Ant Camp via Alder Creek 20W11 & Bucksnort 19W18 where Kim and Paul would be awaiting our arrival. Coming from Nevada Kim decided to arrive Thursday to get a jump-start on what would be for us a very long day one push up the Agua Blanca toward Borracho.

View of Cobblestone Mountain while descending the Bucksnort Trail 
Meet time was to be 9am at the old trail sign just past the spur trail leading into Ant. I really pride myself on never being late so we pushed hard that last mile arriving at 8:57 on the dot. After a long anticipated meeting and exchanged pleasantries we swiftly made our way along 19W10 toward Saddle Skirt. I'll note swift is not the term most would use to describe their walk along the mile and half section between these camps. We've done it before and are familiar with the route. Expect to encounter thick brush and a healthy amount of Poison Oak. The trail up here see's very little use and zero maintenance. Without future plans to rebuild I don't see it getting better anytime soon. See my previous post here for more detail.   

Long time trail buddies Paul M and KC
Old Trail markers possibly ?
Agua Blanca Creek
In June of 2019 Reece and I left a 20 dollar Rei gift card in the new register can at Saddle Skirt. I'm here to report it's still there. Why am I not surprised. Proof this section is indeed rarely traveled. Hundreds of people read that previous post I guess none found the small amount of cash worthy a visit :( 

Gift Card from last year still at Saddle Skirt
Saddle Skirt Camp
Second Ice Can Stove
Heavy duty old-school dutch oven
Pretty much after Saddle Skirt there is nothing left of 19W10. The going is beyond slow. Narrow ravine sections are choked with dead-fall and unavoidable PO. There are a few wider spots that open up before Borracho Spring that do help with travel but for the most part it's a battle. We far underestimated the difficulty and amount of time we would spend getting through. Reece and I hit the trail at 6:30am and it would not be until 7pm that we were able to reach the Borracho Camp Vicinity and find a flat spot suitable enough to lay down for the night. On top of this I fell earlier in the day climbing around like a monkey and bashed my thumb pretty much rendering it useless for the remainder of the trip, as I sit and type this post it is still swollen and purple. 

19W10 after leaving Saddle Skirt
Open stretch before Borracho Spring
Borracho Spring flowing nicely
At around .2 of a mile beyond borracho Spring and just before the junction with the Agua Blanca and the Western drainage coming off Cobblestone Mountain (our route) is where the old trail climbed high above on the eastern bank over a series of rises and through notches to leave the Agua Blanca Behind. The climb is quite arduous and if it wasn't for an old horse shoe I found up there it would be hard to believe that a trail ever existed in such a precipitous setting. This is a key point in the route and one you must be mindful of if attempting the journey. Trying to continue along the Agua Blanca from here will lead you in the wrong direction and climbing out much later than this will be difficult. 


Climbing loose rock up and away from the Agua Blanca 
Reece taking a breather or just perhaps admiring the views.
Night one Camp (N34.61486° W118.89582°)
 above the creek adjacent to where I believe Campo Borracho once was or possibly still is. 
Thoroughly exhausted after reaching what should have been Borracho Camp and not immediately finding anything we chose the flat pictured above. As I mentioned previously it was about 7pm and the group had been through enough for one day. While Paul and Reece began to set up camp Kim and Myself dropped pack and attempted one more search of the area for the historic Campo Borracho site but once  again came up empty handed. From Kim's recollection the Day Fire had completely changed the landscape. The canyon is walled in with thick brush and most spots nearer the water with any flat space are completely overgrown making them damn hard to inspect. knowing there was not much more we could accomplish before dark we resolved to continue the hunt in the morning. 

Here's what ones working with trying to navigate Borracho. Somewhere in a mess like this lies those Ice Can Stoves. 
Plenty of water most of the way to the Cobblestone Saddle.
Brush for days
The second day's plans were even more ambitious than the first. Find Borracho on the way up to Cobblestone Spring Camp and spend night two near or at Halfway Spring. On paper this looks doable, however knowing what we know now of the current field conditions makes this notion  just laughable. Day two once again proved to be painfully slow going. We did not find Borracho proper. Is my search over? The answer to that question is hell no. I will return once I can again park at the upper Buck Creek Trailhead and drop down the old 19W12 connector. I'll spend a couple nights with some good help and the right tools and Campo Borracho unless completely destroyed will again show herself. 

Working our way up toward the saddle.
Looking back down toward Borracho from the Cobblestone Saddle.
Busted Junction sign at the Saddle. 
After hours of grueling work we finally reached the Cobblestone Saddle. The worst was over. I ain't gonna lie the stretch from Ant Camp to here is straight brutal. By now we were way behind schedule and the realization that we were not gonna make Halfway Spring this day was beginning to set in. All thoughts from this point on were of the hopes that Cobblestone Spring Camp would be flowing or else it was going to be a long and perhaps thirsty night. 

In route to Cobblestone Spring Camp

From the Saddle everything opens up and a well defined use trail leads you toward the Summit of Cobblestone. Being a Sierra Club HPS hike this section of trail still see's a fair amount of use. There are two practical ways you can reach Cobblestone Camp the first being break from the Summit route .4 of a mile from the saddle and follow 18W03 Southeast across the Northern flanks of the mountain as we did. Washed out sections here will require a bit higher traverse than the original trail followed. Or go ahead and push to the Summit first then traverse the ridge southeast and drop down into the camp. A drop in from above will need to be done before being directly above the camp to avoid walls of impenetrable brush that marks the camps eastern and Southern borders. After seeing the camp and staying the night I was actually quite pleased we were not able to push further. I rarely use the L word but hey I LOVED Cobblestone Spring Camp. Being 6000 feet up on that mountain in such a picturesque setting was an unforgettable moment and a reminder of just how special the Los Padres can be. 

                                 


Jeez that old cistern has seen better days
One would be hard-pressed to find a better hiking mate than KC.
1 of 3 Ice Can stoves 
I'm sure you knew it was coming. This is now site #6 of the blue cans with a cool sticker and a 25$ REI gift card.

Plenty of tent space here with 3 separate flats. Camp Coordinates - (N34.60767° W118.85682°)
Middle flat that Reece and I occupied.
Path from Camp to the Spring Box
Swapping stories
Sunrise From Cobblestone Spring Camp
You know that old saying if you were a fly on the wall, well listing to our day 3 plans one might be thinking do you guys ever learn ? Again a big bold ambitious agenda that would get us back on track by reaching Log Cabin Camp or perhaps maybe even a bit further. After saying our goodbyes to Cobblestone Spring we loaded up and began the steep climb out of camp and up to the ridge top. Forget about attempting to follow the old trail here on a more gradual accent, unless you want to be crawling on your hands and knees through god awful thick, prickly stuff. The best open path is almost straight up actually better yet at a slight angle pointing back toward the summit. You will gain approximately 700 feet elevation in a half mile. 

A look down on Cobblestone Spring Camp
View from the top & the next ridge line decent.
Aside from the Camp I think I speak for the rest of the group when I say the Cobblestone Ridge decent from near the peak until dropping off into Halfway Spring was the highlight of the trip. Plenty of the old tread is still visible and the views up there are phenomenal. Surprisingly it is quite open and easily navigated. Prominent features scream out to the trained eye, it really is a unique and wild perspective you wont get anywhere else. If there is one thing from this write up that makes your bucket list I do suggest an exploration of this ridge be it.

Series of meadows that can be found along the abandoned Bucksnort Spring Route through the Condor Sanctuary to the Agua Blanca.
Whiteacre in the distance
Potholes/Devil's Potrero area

Very odd finding this lone Ice Can Stove on the Cobblestone Ridge. Coordinates- N34.59080° W118.83663°
One location with several metal can remains from what may have been an old hunters camp on the ridge. Coordinates- N34.59007° W118.82734°
Not much further past the metal cans is where we began our decent into Halfway Spring. This section is a bit confusing. The old trail will lead you off the ridge top and around the northeastern side of a high rise before returning back to the same line. The brush is bad on this skirt around and unless your carrying a much older map and or following a predetermined route on your phone or gps unit there are no clues a trail ever once existed. As you continue the decent you'll again leave the current ridge line for a more northern one that will drop you in closer to the Spring. If none of that makes much sense just download my GPS track and or KMZ file and you'll see what I mean. Essentially you can drop in anywhere you want, the main Halfway drainage is to your left (if coming downhill) however some places will be far better than others. There is no easy path through this drainage most who try will be confined to the creek bed experiencing a Poisson oak scene that can only be described as something straight from a horror film. The farther from the Spring the easier it does get if that's any consolation.

Planning our route down into Halfway Spring
Halfway Spring down in the cluster of trees
Waterfall just downstream of the Spring
Thick vegetation in here
A more navigable section
Climbing out of the Halfway Drainage.
It was exhausting searching around Halfway and we burned a lot of precious time, again as the theme goes we had fallen way behind schedule. Unfortunately we found no evidence of the old camp. That doesn't mean it isn't there though. By no means were we able to complete a thorough investigation of the whole area. As was the case with borracho more time in this one place would be needed. I will commit to going back again but next round will be up from Piru with 2 nights in the Halfway drainage. After everything we had been through thus far it was decided we would spend our next night at Ellis Apiary then the following morning exit Piru and catch a ride back to the Dough Flat Trailhead instead up hiking up the Agua Blanca. There were several reasons for this with the main one being how far behind we had gotten followed by how worked we were at this point. Right out the gate it was rough and it stayed that way. Oftentimes I am guilty of making things sound easier than they actually were so I want to be clear here that this was damn tough. If your thinking of following in our footsteps be warned your navigation skills should be honed like a fine edge and your pain tolerance high. 

Looking down on Piru Creek and Ellis Apiary.
The climb out of Halfway is nasty but  you need to get back on the ridge. We choose a spot very near where the old trail would have climbed out (now washed out). From our exit point it's about .5 of a mile further along to where 18W03 originally dropped into Turtle Canyon. I noted the location on the map. We choose not to drop in here and just continue along the ridge top and I suggest you do the same. That Turtle Canyon drop in looked treacherous and we wanted no part of it. Essentially the ridge detour will drop you steeply in the same spot on Piru just before Ellis Apiary as would have the exit from Turtle. 

Ellis Apiary Trail Camp

My heart sank once arriving at Ellis Apiary. I was just telling the guys how nice the Camp looked after my recent clean up of it back in September. You can view the previous post here. What a disaster, the place is completely overgrown already. Dammit everything grows back so fast around here. All that hard work and it appeared nothing was ever done. Obviously this Camp will need a dedicated group making multiple trips per year to keep it in good shape. My sense is that wont ever happen but you never know with the Potholes Trailhead open maybe more people will come. Not only was the brush high but the place was super buggy. We elected to stay the night on the open pebble beach section adjacent the camp nearer the creek. To add to the list of memorable moments rain dumped on us the next morning. The one night Reece decided not use his rain fly of course. A check of weather before we left hinted at a slight chance of rain Tuesday morning this was only Monday. He had all his belongings nicely stacked near his tent and was sleeping very peacefully in the downpour. When I awoke I said "hey Reece it's raining" never in my life have I seen him move so fast, he sprung out of that tent from his slumber like a cheetah on a gazelle cursing his unfortunate luck. Kim's bivy lost it's waterproofing years ago by this time he had already drug his stuff under a tree and was most likely chuckling at the spectacle taking place North his little site. 

 Our Camp on "Pebble Beach" Adjacent Ellis Apiary

Somewhere between 5-6 is the approximate Mileage from Ellis Apiary to the new Pothole Trailhead add another 5 miles to that if your forced to walk all the way to the Lake Piru main entrance as we were. Damn you Covid-19. The trail from Ellis to where the old road cut leads you out of the creek toward the Agua Blanca junction is no longer maintained. Yes there are a lot of shitty spots that being said a huge portion is still viable (mostly on the west bank). Far less time needs to be spent drudging up the creek bed than I think most would suspect. 

Piru Creek

Blue Point Caves
New Potholes Trailhead (N34.51168° W118.76287°)

According to my old, cracked, touch screen, pain in the ass Garmin etrex that I will no longer be using (I finally upgraded) our total mileage was about 33. After all the time spent dreaming of Borracho and Halfway It's still a surreal feeling that we actually accomplished the trek. Not all the event details were spelled out in this post. I mean sometimes what happens in the backcountry should stay in the backcountry. Cheers to my fellow mates that made the journey alongside me. Kim your earlier experiences and beta proved invaluable, thanks my friend for seeing this one through.


Monday, May 4, 2020

South Lily Meadows

South Lily Meadows (Unofficial Name)
I'm usually looking for something and today was no exception. Perhaps an arrowhead or even just a single Lily flower to justify my naming of the Meadows to Craig. Approximately 1.2 miles Southwest as the crow flies off trail from Lily Meadows Camp is a fantastic little series of interconnected meadows on the southern fringes of the Chumash Wilderness that have been calling to me for  long enough.  A loop trip of the meadows and I could kill two birds with one stone as Mark Subbotin has been patiently awaiting my promised Camp Survey of Lily Meadows. 

Park here along side the road for the North Fork Trail.
Nice newer signage courtesy some really great BSA Volunteers.

Our day began at the North Fork Lockwood (22W02) Trail-head just outside the gates of BSA Camp Three Falls. It's about a 1/4 mile walk along the paved road through private property before reaching the dirt service road which begins the trail proper. I'll be sparse with detail here getting up to Lily Meadows Camp as I have written about the route in an earlier post which you can read here if interested. (North Fork Lockwood to Lily Meadows). Posted under the Trail-Head sign was a clear notice asking people to please not tamper with the diversion dam constructed at North falls. I guess water is being rerouted to the boy scout pond for fire suppression. We stopped in to have a look.


 North Fork Falls

 Diversion Dam at the falls. Water flows through the steel grate on the left into pipes downward to the BSA pond. Lift the gate to the right and it flows somewhat naturally again. 


After leaving the falls the trail begins a more aggressive climb into the Wilderness. Around the 3.7 mile mark we found ourselves once again back at Lily Meadows Camp. A picturesque setting Lily is situated on a an expansive flat surrounded by tall pines. The main camping area has a nice picnic table and plenty of bench seating around the fire ring. Aside from the hotter months water is normally reliable from the creek just south the camp. Here's a fun description From Craig Carey's Book Hiking & Backpacking Santa Barbara & Ventura.  "Though the various breeds of wild onion in the area were once included in the lily family, one cannot help but surmise the outdoorsman who gave Lily Meadows it's current name mistook the plentiful irises growing in the summer meadows for lilies (various signs in the Los Padres spell it both "Lilly" and "Lily").

Lily Meadows Camp

After gathering all the beta required to complete the camp survey it was time to leave the North Fork Trail behind. Just past Lily we took a sharp left off trail and headed South climbing a ravine to the top of one of the two high ridges separating us from our much anticipated Meadows. 

Looking North down toward Lily Meadows Camp, Grouse and Sawmill mountains in the distance.
A Look South at our direct route over the next ridge just beyond the badlands.
After taking in stellar views atop the first ridge we poked around a large rock formation before gathering our bearings and deciding our next move. Originally I had planned to maybe drop in from here and follow the ravine down and around to the southeast where it would eventually connect with the gully running through the meadows. However that would have entailed a bit of backtracking so instead we opted to plow straight ahead up and over the second ridge. In the end I am glad we did as we were able to capture some great shots down into the badlands.



Cross country travel through the Chumash Wilderness is nothing like in the lower and much more painful chaparral elevations. Here up high everything is more open and Navigable. The smells of pine and juniper are an assault on the senses, I find a peaceful serenity here hard to replicate anywhere else. Most the little gully's still had water and signs of wildlife were everywhere. Large deer and bear tracks at every turn and even little nesting birds were encountered down in the meadow. 

Large pile of bear scat. 
Pictured below is the hole a bird came flying out of. Further inspection showed the eggs inside. After that encounter we made sure to tread lightly. 

Old posts found near the meadow with strange markings possibly from former mining claims?
Right under the 6 mile mark we descended upon the meadow a brief search produced no official name that I could find. I consulted with a bearded mad man of the LP and he knew of no name either. Great I said then I shall name it South Lily Meadows because it's a set of meadows south the camp (so creative right ? Not really). To which he replied "why don't you just let me know if you find any lilies first. Well sir I am here to report I found not one single lily nor any arrowheads. Lot's of sage brush though ;) What we did get was a breathtaking meadow in the middle of nowhere to enjoy all to ourselves. You really had to be there to appreciate all the beauty of the place. 

South Lily Meadows




Done with the meadow (not literally someday I'll be back) we started to make our way down canyon. As we dropped lower in elevation the brush got thicker, nothing of any real concern just some waist high sage brush and the occasional dead-fall. I guess one might consider it light bushwhacking. I found it quite pleasurable. What had all the hallmarks of being a perfect day went out the window when we got here N34° 45' 43.6" W119° 09' 33.9" A couple miles downstream from the meadow is an older abandoned pot farm. Black tubing and other trash are strewn about everywhere. Pesticides and other chemicals left behind by these people are dangerous and detrimental to the environment. The wildlife are suffering as we found a very large dead rat stuck in one of the 5 gallon buckets. It's been reported and I have offered my services to return and help clean it up. Now we wait, hopefully the approval comes. 

 Pot Farm
Wildlife casualties 

From the pot farm it's really only about a mile downstream before connecting back with North Fork Trail. This last lower section has some very interesting geology. Sub-aqueous delta fans (I only know this term because I read Craig's book, sorry I ain't that sophisticated) protrude from the canyon walls like Volcanic rock. Down climbing this last narrow chute section in the creek bed can be sketchy when water is flowing over slick moss. We debated it but decided to climb up and around on the north side instead. 

Sub-aqueous delta fans 
Jeff debating a down climb


Alternate way down from the north
Out of the Canyon and back on trail it was a short jaunt back to the car. Our total mileage was somewhere between 10-11. I cant say exactly as I edited out some worthless wanderings from the GPS Track which is available for download below under the map. Last week out in the San Rafael the ticks were relentless. Not today, these higher elevations see far less of those evil little bastards. I think I counted 3 compared to at least a hundred last week. While the crowds continue to flock to Rose Valley and Piedra Blanca I'll stick to these little lessor know slices of heaven for now.