Thursday, July 23, 2020

The Summer of 69 Pika to Woods Lake via Duck Pass

Duck Pass overlooking Barney Lake 
Heading out via Duck Pass in September of 1978 was one of my father in-law Bruce's last official Backpacking trips. 42 years later and just days before his 69th birthday we would venture out to tackle a portion of that very same route from so many years past. He felt he needed to do something big for his "Summer of '69" and I couldn't have agreed more.

Duck Pass to Red's Meadow September 1978


Day 1: Duck Pass Trail-head to Pika Lake

Monday July 13th 2020 around 8:30 am we started up the trail via Duck Pass Trail-head just South of Lake Mary elevation approximately 9170 ft. Knowing on this trip I wouldn't be subjecting myself to the usual long miles with extreme bushwhacking iv'e become so accustomed too I brought my comfort gear, i.e my pack was heavy at least 40 pounds. At last weigh in Bruce was hovering around 35 which had me a bit concerned considering the last time he carried that kind of weight on his back I wasn't even born yet. Duck Pass trail is in outstanding shape, well marked and easily followed with almost zero chance of getting lost. That being said it is all uphill and especially unforgiving when you reach the pass proper. Bruce for the last few years has been plagued with a nagging knee injury and his hips can be easily aggravated. I wont lie in my head I gave his odds about a fifty-fifty chance of making it to our first destination and really began to second guess that when shorty after departing he mentioned "wow I'm really feeling this altitude, would've been nice to have acclimated more." 


Lake Mary in the distance.
But you know what that tough SOB kept pushing on, one foot after another he lead us up that pass and my worries began to dwindle. It wasn't long before I could see that he's got this. Some may call it pure grit and determination but I think my wife's comment about "dad you'll never make it three nights out there, I bet by Wednesday you'll be calling us for a ride" was something he was never gonna let her have bragging rights on. This Pass is well known for the series of alpine lakes one encounters throughout the trek. About a mile in is the turn off for Arrowhead Lake. I ran down off trail for a quick look however this is the one lake we really didn't stop to admire. Not because it lacks beauty but it's just rather out of the way and not real visible from the trail like the many of the others that lie ahead. 

 Arrowhead Lake

Next up at under the 2 mile mark is Skelton Lake. What a dreamy little slice of heaven. I again immediately ran to the shore line to gaze upon it's beauty. Little trout could be seen darting back and forth and the beach even had a classic bikini babe catching some rays. (Sorry guys no photos). Fishing was definitely on the agenda but no lines were thrown in here. Having a condo in Mammoth for many years my father in law is no stranger to these lakes. In the past Bruce has fished the inlet with good success. 

 Skelton Lake


After Skelton the uphill slog continues until a slight downhill and some leveling off when approaching Barney Lake at about the 3 mile mark. This was night one of the infamous September trip from 1978. I found Barney to be quite pretty however a bit too crowded for my liking. This is a popular spot for day hikers and there was no shortage of them wandering around the lake and it's tributary. Here you get a first look at the steep, rocky Duck Pass. Red Lake (more like a glorified pond) is just to the Northeast a stones throw from Barney. Fishing did not look promising here but hey you never know. 

Little tributary before reaching Barney Lake
Red Lake in the Background
Barney Lake

I think Bruce would attest that the worst part was just ahead. Climbing the pass with a load on your back is a bitch especially if your old and out of shape ;) The next mile is a traverse of switchbacks that lead you up a shear rocky cliff face through the notch to the top of the pass. Elevation at Barney is approximately 10,100. The pass tops out at around 10,700. 

Climbing Duck Pass.

A look down upon Barney, Red and Skelton Lakes
As we made our way up the pass I felt a bit of a stomach ache coming on. The last thing I wanted was to be stuck on that exposed cliff surrounded by folks with the possibility that I may have to go to the bathroom. I told Bruce I'll meet you at the top and jammed. I made haste and got up that hill in no time. Though my efforts proved to be futile as of course upon reaching the top I felt much better the stomach ache had subsided. Slowly but surely Bruce trudged along, this section began to take the wind out of his sails but he eventually arrived, worn out but still in good spirits. We took a nice long lunch break in the shade admiring the stellar views on the opposite side of the pass toward Duck Lake. 

Top of Duck Pass looking down on Duck Lake and Pika behind it.
Just after topping out is the junction to Pika Lake. Here the spur trail leads you down around the Northeast side of Duck Lake to where Pika is nestled just behind the little peninsula in the photo above. No more than 600 feet from the eastern shores of Duck. 4.1 miles marks the top of the pass and it is approximately another 1.1 miles further to reach the outlet of Pika. We were lucky to get a primo camp site and mostly had the whole lake to ourselves aside from one other very small group of campers. Day ones total mileage came to around 5.4. By this point Bruce had pretty much reached his daily limit, it was a good day one push. I was quite impressed with his ability's thus far, "good job you old fart!" 

Duck Lake


 This was so intriguing just off the northeast shore of Duck Lake was this structure built into the rock. The door was chain locked and it appeared it had not been used for some time. What the hell was this once used for we thought ? Later on during our return trip we ran into a hiker that asked us if there was still any aluminum boats on Duck Lake. Apparently according to him this was once used by the boat rental folks. Crazy to think one could actually at one time rent a boat out here smack in the middle of the John Muir Wilderness.  

I was able to get a small peak inside

Pika Lake




 Incredible view from my campsite like something straight out of Backpacker Magazine.

 Immediately upon arrival I got took work setting up my campsite and then headed out for some fishing. Bruce did what Bruce does really well, he took a nap. 


Day 2: Fishing around Duck & Pika Lakes

Originally on day two we had planned to make our way toward Ram Lakes however that plan changed and we decided to stay put and further explore the surrounding area. We spent the majority of our second day fishing around Duck, Pika and the little ponds in between. We found the action far better in Pika then Duck. I threw everything I had at Duck Lake and only caught one fish and that was on Berkeley power bait egg. Bruce did have some luck with Thomas Buoyant lures, but the fish were stubborn. We caught several fish in Pika using a water bobber and fly. (Brooks & Rainbows). I took advantage of the slightly warmer water in the shallower pond between Pika and Duck and went for a swim to freshen up. Dinner consisted of mashed potatoes and Rainbow trout, Delicious.  

Small Pond South of Pika
The old man climbing down to Duck Lake
"Listen here kid we didn't use water filters back when I was hiking"
South Shore of Duck Lake
Bruce's Brookie from Duck
Rainbow Dinner from Pika


Day 3: Pika to Woods Lake

After gathering our belongings and sprucing up the camp we made our way back along the Duck Pass trail from which we came. This time however upon reaching Barney Lake we exited and went off trail. I mean come on you didn't think I was actually gonna stay on a nice maintained trail through this whole thing did you? That's not my style. 

"I'll show her he said" not only would he make it all three nights but alas even throw in a little off trail action with some light bushwhacking. 

Right after crossing the tributary at Barney we made our way along the West bank of Red Lake then crossed down into the eastern Valley which leads .2 of a mile as the crow flies to Woods Lake. Landing on the West side of the Lake we decided to make camp on the north east shore where at one time an older trail led up from Skelton Lake. Woods is an amazing little spot we had it completely to ourselves. Fish were jumping but again like Duck very stubborn. I had followers and one bite however landed nothing. Bruce swears he caught two while I was setting up my tent but I don't know if I believe him. Both magically got off before he could get them to shore. "Didn't you hear me yell fish on?" he says. "Uh no I don't even you when your standing right next to me yet alone half way across the lake." Many hours were spent fishing and meandering around lazily at the waters edge. Bruce even had cell service way out there in the middle of nowhere. (AT&T) My T-Mobile got nothing. We enjoyed a fine dinner and evening sunset before heading off to bed. 

Woods Lake


Our Camp at Woods Lake 



Woods Lake Sunset

Day 4: Woods Lake back to the Duck Pass Trail-head 

Maps do show the trail that connects Woods and Skelton Lakes however the section out of Woods is very faint. Really it's a pick your own path down to the lower Pond where it picks up nicely again. I must say this section of trail  was by far our favorite stretch of the entire trip. No people, lot's of wildlife, a babbling creek and a woodsy forest await. Just incredible we were both oohing and awing around every little corner. Came within 10 feet of a deer that stood proud for us to photograph. It is obvious that the trail gets some maintenance up to the campsite on the north end of the pond, maybe the neglect between the pond and Woods Lake is done on purpose. To mix it up we decided to take the Emerald Lake trail near Skelton out and back down to the Trail-head. Both Duck and Emerald come out in the same parking area. My track has our total mileage at 11.3 though we actually far exceeded that as I did not record our second days travel fishing around Duck lake. Bruce may have caught the bug to backpack some more as upon finishing he did say "I just might do this again" So I guess we will see how it goes. I'd say this was indeed a successful Summer of '69.   Downloadable GPX and KMZ files are available at the bottom of the post below the Google map. 

Pond below Woods
The Woods Lake Trail



Handicap Crossing

Emerald Lake 




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