Wednesday, June 3, 2020

Upper Buck Creek & The Hunt For Divide

Upper Buck Creek Trail-head with Cobblestone Mountain looming afar. 
Back in December of 2018 we did a reconnaissance of the lower section of the Buck Creek Trail which you can read about here. Without making it all the way to the upper camp my conclusion at that time was that the lower camp was the original forest service site. Well I have since changed my mind. Finally visiting the upper camp adjacent the spring and since that earlier writing acquiring older versions of LP recreation maps I am now fairly confident the upper site was the first. Not that any of this matters to most but at least I'm setting the record straight. To make this a loop trip and even more exciting we dropped in on the old ridge trail that once connected the elusive Divide Camp with Upper Buck Creek Camp. After spending one night at Upper Buck we exited the next morning along 18W01 as it currently runs today.

1937 Los Padres National Forest Recreation Map showing Upper Buck Creek Camp near the spring. Notice there is no lower Camp closer to Piru Creek as can be seen on more modern maps
1950 Los Padres National Forest Recreation map showing part of our route with green being the drop into Buck along the old ridge route and red the exit along 18W01. While I certainly don't have them all I've not seen Divide Camp appear on any other LP Rec maps aside from this one. 
Upper Buck Creek Trail-Head - N34° 38.297' W118° 55.196'

After the long drive up Alamo Mountain we took off from Upper Buck Creek TH in route toward the Summit of Sewart Mountain. Downed trees along this short stretch could really use a good chainsawing as it is  just outside the wilderness boundary. In less than a mile you reach the Summit of Sewart. The views atop this mountain are pretty bad-ass, there is a small register can hidden in the prominent rock pile.

In Route toward Sewart Mtn
Cobblestone Mountain as seen from Sewart.
More Sewart Views.
Snowy Peak
Looking down on Pyramid Lake from Sewart Mountain
After a quick break atop Sewart we continued east dropping down to connect with the Big Cedar Creek Trail 19W05. It is precisely here at the 1.5 mile mark that Big Cedar and Buck Creek 18W01 junction together. The right turn for Buck is faint and easy to miss. Would surely help to have a sign installed here. For the majority of those wanting to visit Upper Buck this would be your turn off. Hoping to find evidence of Divide and having decided on the alternate route down we skipped the turn off and continued along 19W05. 

Buck Creek & Big Cedar Creek Trail Junction. - N34° 38.315' W118° 53.999'
Lupines blooming all along Big Cedar Creek.
Old trail to Divide Spring. - N34° 38.626' W118° 53.789'
A half mile from the Buck junction is where we would exit 19W05 as seen in the photo above. Faint signs of the old trail leading up this ravine were plentiful. Within a short distance of between .1 and .2 of a mile we Located two flat areas that may have been the location of Divide Camp. Both flats had fire ring remnants and piles of rusted old cans. The spring adjacent the flats was flowing well. I have marked all the relevant information on the map at the bottom of this post with Downloadable GPX and KMZ files. Another note if you can I recommend viewing my blog posts from the desktop as the mobile photo views just kinda suck. Though you can always click on any picture to enlarge them. 

 Divide Camp Possibility #1 -  N34° 38.587' W118° 53.730'

Divide Spring
-
 Divide Camp Possibility #2 - N34° 38.516' W118° 53.713'

At this second flat location is where the old trail departs down the ridge. Upon first glance it appears really thick and sorta impenetrable however if you hug the North side of the ridge where some of the tread is still visible it is a lot more open and easier to navigate. Deviate from this path and it becomes a nightmare. We picked our way down slowly enjoying the views and the wildlife interactions. 

Jeff ducking branches coming down the ridge.
This big guy wasn't bothered by us in the slightest. 
Dropping into the upper Buck Creek drainage. 
Just before fully dropping into the drainage things get ugly. Sorry no real good way around it, it's thick down here. There are some open areas before reaching the Camp but you will do a good amount of bushwhacking as is to be expected when traveling decades old routes. Luckily the distance is short. Just put your head down and bulldoze. Traversing the higher right side of the valley through this section helped a lot. About .4 of a mile above the Camp is another spring with reliable water. I have labeled it Upper Buck Spring #2. That being said if you made it into camp and the adjacent spring was dry it would be a bummer to have to bushwhack back up to the higher spring. I might first try my luck at heading downstream to more reliable water from Buck Creek. 

Yeah that's pretty thick
Nicer open area leading toward camp.
Upper Buck Spring #2. What was amazing was the amount of water dumping out here yet going straight underground and not at all flowing further down the drainage. Quite a sight. -  N34° 38.236' W118° 52.499'
You'll do well to walk this higher right side of the drainage and out of the real thick crap. 
The last mile proved to be a bit slow going but we finally arrived at Upper Buck Camp. This secluded and well shaded flat sits under cover from large oaks and conifers. The little compound has a lot going on which wasn't quite apparent at first until we dropped pack and gave it a good search. Getting in was less than 5 miles and we could have made a long day of it though I'm happy we didn't as we most likely would have been rushed and not discovered the old ice can stove and other hidden features. Besides the short stint up to Sewart at around 6800 feet elevation the rest of the way drops steeply downhill bottoming out around the 4200' mark.  This site was one of the last wilderness camp surveys I had left to complete for MPRD. I very much enjoyed the night I spent here and do look forward to returning sometime for a top to bottom shuttle From Upper Buck TH down to Hardluck.

Here's a before and after picture of what is most likely a newer user created site right off the old trail. We brought the ice can stove from where it was hidden down in the ravine up to the site and built a bench from deadwood. I'd say we left the place nicer than we found it. Notice the no longer legible plywood sign in the tree. - N34° 38.251' W118° 52.150'

I left no register this time. Instead signed in on the piece of deadwood used to construct the bench. For the record I would never advocate carving into anything living or historical. If this pisses you off one I don't care and two just know that it must be more environmentally friendly than me leaving a blue can filled with paper and pens. Please do not email me complaining about it.
Paperwork, there always seems to be paperwork.
The Spring at Upper Buck Creek Camp - N34° 38.265' W118° 52.164'


Thousands of Ladybugs by the waters edge.

Metal sign in the tree northeast the plywood sign - N34° 38.251' W118° 52.137'
These photos show what was most likely one of the original sites. Pictured above and below the intricate rock wall structure and fire ring. N34° 38.235' W118° 52.133'

Original position of the ice can stove - N34° 38.268' W118° 52.156'
Third fire ring nearer the ice can stove and lean-to second rock shelter - N34° 38.266' W118° 52.142'
Second rock wall shelter with lean-to built up around it

Zoom in to see the rad little baby California Mountain King snake found down by the spring. 
I suspect this was once a well used camp. We found many antique bottles and various old rusted cans. The location is great and some of the clearest & best tasting water in the LP comes from Buck Creek Before the trails leading in and out went to shit one can see this was most likely a happening spot. I really wish more effort would go into maintaining the Southern Los Padres and for that matter not being able to drive to the lower Buck Creek TH is ridiculous. It's one thing not to resurrect Hardluck for the sake of the Arroyo Toad but for crying out loud please give us back the trail-head access. This would help alleviate pressure on the same trails people use and abuse over and over again. 

Higher on the western side of the drainage 
As was the case with the previous day getting out of the Buck Creek drainage even along the current 18W01 is a pain in the butt. The first .3 of a mile sucks. Major Bushwhack. To get out of the brush we made haste away from the trail and onto to the higher western portion of the drainage where it opens up a little more. In fact if you look at the track you see an abrupt right turn, that was us saying alright enough of this brush choked gully. Luckily this is again a very short distance. Once out of the thick stuff it's not bad at all. Climbing out before reaching the dry pond the trail shows on different sides of the drainage depending on what map your looking at. We found the west side to be just fine in fact switchbacks and plenty of tread will lead you up and out. 

When you pass these you'll know your on the right path.
Dry Pond just before reaching the ridge, you'll push through some brush here and then it's wide open. Apparently this was being used as a campsite at one point as remnants of a fire ring and makeshift bench can be found near the center. - N34° 37.694' W118° 52.734'
After popping out from the pond the rest of the trail is wide open and in decent shape along the ridge. Closer to the Buck/Big Cedar junction there are faint areas that will require pushing through brush and a few downed trees but nothing really to fret over. It's a beast of a climb but affords great views of Cobblestone, Snowy, White Mountain and of course my favorite a glimpse down 19W12 into the Borracho vicinity.

Wide open ridge top along 18W01
Fairly certain this post marks what was once the 19W12 connector leading to Borracho - N34° 37.797' W118° 53.554'
A look down toward Campo Borracho.
Loving that purplish blue color
Upper Buck Creek Trail-Head in the distance.
Beat up old gate on the western flanks of Sewart.
We left the camp around 7:30 am and were back to the car within 4 hours arriving just before 11:30. Total mileage for the loop came in at around 10. This trail desperately needs maintenance especially the half mile stretch into and out of the camp. This is an outstanding hike and can be an even better destination with a little volunteer effort. Maybe the next time I return it will be with tools in hand on a trail crew. 






Thursday, May 21, 2020

Cobblestone Mountain Trail 18W03

19W10 to 18W03
Legends of forgotten camps and abandoned trails in the far eastern corner of the Sespe Wilderness have been a topic of discussion for ages. Add to this years of Cartographic nightmares and a lack of any real online beta of what exists and what doesn't and ones left scratching their head. My interest in this matter really piqued after finding a VC  Canyoneering post from 2010 titled "The Most Remote Campsite in the Southern Los Padres." From Bryan's list in the comments section Halfway Spring would hold the top spot with Borracho in 4th. Even Cove got a mention at number 9, though I reckon the Agua Blanca was in rougher shape back then. All three of these camps just so happen to be obtainable by loop trip linking Agua Blanca 19W10 and Cobblestone 18W03 (what's left of them) if one has the grit and determination to see it through. Craig Carey's Diamonds in the Rough: Roll Call followed by Series 18 West would only further throw fuel to the fire. Let's not forget Saddle Skirt, Ellis Apiary and Cobblestone Spring Camps, rarely do those ever get a visit. Any evidence left of Tin Can Cabin? What if any remains of Halfway & Borracho? Are you seeing a pattern here? The observer is often left with more questions than answers.

Old Stove Kim Found on the ridge above Halfway Spring December 2010 (N34.58007° W118.81252°)
Naturally I began to dig for information. I contacted maybe better term pestered all the who's who of the Los Padres that I knew. What I wanted more than anything was a single old photo of Halfway or Borracho. Hell I would have been happy with even a description from someone who had actually seen them. Remember the Forest Service abandoned 18W03 in the 60's and it was said to be rough then, just imagine now. Gagnon wrote of slated Camp removals in the 70's. Would I fight my way through all that brush only to find the camps had in fact been removed or destroyed in the Day Fire? I was able to obtain bits of info but nothing to confirm their existence. Most leads were dead ends or recommendations to get in touch with Kim Coakley (SVS crew) a legendary man of the mountain, he may know. Mark Subbotin was gracious enough to put me in contact with Kim after a series of emails we finally had a nice long phone conversation about our adventures in the forest. Kim had in fact traveled through the area in question but it had been over a decade. He shared some great photos of Cobblestone Spring Camp and water flowing from the Spring at Halfway but admitted never finding the camp, in fact a stove he found high on the ridge gave him the impression it may have been taken from Halfway Spring at one point or another. No pictures and a faint memory of what if any was ever at Borracho. I thanked Kim for taking the time to speak with me and we stayed in touch often by email vowing to get together for a walk the next time he was in town.

  Carol Day with Kim and crew at Borracho July 2004

Fast forward to the November 2019 Agua Blanca Trail maintenance with Alan Coles and crew where I was able to make the acquaintance of Carol Day. Carol's no stranger when it comes to the more remote sections of the LP. We share a passion for the history of the Forest and she promised to send me whatever photos she could dig out from her earlier adventures (Many with Kim). Attached in her email along with other wonderful images was a couple shots from 2004, she's standing at Borracho next to an Ice Can Stove. I was stoked, finally photo evidence. Best of all the man in the picture above with his back turned is Kim Coakley. 15 years had passed, memories were hazy. A conversation ensued "Hey Kim check out these pics of Borracho." "Chris that's me in the photo what year was that taken?" "2004 Carol found them." "Wow I had completely forgotten about those stoves.  I need to go back and see them again"  I'm ready when you are Kim."

Dough Flat Trailhead
Good water flowing from Squaw Spring right now
Blooming Yucca
Friday morning Reece and I met up at the Dough Flat Trailhead to make the 5.5 mile hike into Ant Camp via Alder Creek 20W11 & Bucksnort 19W18 where Kim and Paul would be awaiting our arrival. Coming from Nevada Kim decided to arrive Thursday to get a jump-start on what would be for us a very long day one push up the Agua Blanca toward Borracho.

View of Cobblestone Mountain while descending the Bucksnort Trail 
Meet time was to be 9am at the old trail sign just past the spur trail leading into Ant. I really pride myself on never being late so we pushed hard that last mile arriving at 8:57 on the dot. After a long anticipated meeting and exchanged pleasantries we swiftly made our way along 19W10 toward Saddle Skirt. I'll note swift is not the term most would use to describe their walk along the mile and half section between these camps. We've done it before and are familiar with the route. Expect to encounter thick brush and a healthy amount of Poison Oak. The trail up here see's very little use and zero maintenance. Without future plans to rebuild I don't see it getting better anytime soon. See my previous post here for more detail.   

Long time trail buddies Paul M and KC
Old Trail markers possibly ?
Agua Blanca Creek
In June of 2019 Reece and I left a 20 dollar Rei gift card in the new register can at Saddle Skirt. I'm here to report it's still there. Why am I not surprised. Proof this section is indeed rarely traveled. Hundreds of people read that previous post I guess none found the small amount of cash worthy a visit :( 

Gift Card from last year still at Saddle Skirt
Saddle Skirt Camp
Second Ice Can Stove
Heavy duty old-school dutch oven
Pretty much after Saddle Skirt there is nothing left of 19W10. The going is beyond slow. Narrow ravine sections are choked with dead-fall and unavoidable PO. There are a few wider spots that open up before Borracho Spring that do help with travel but for the most part it's a battle. We far underestimated the difficulty and amount of time we would spend getting through. Reece and I hit the trail at 6:30am and it would not be until 7pm that we were able to reach the Borracho Camp Vicinity and find a flat spot suitable enough to lay down for the night. On top of this I fell earlier in the day climbing around like a monkey and bashed my thumb pretty much rendering it useless for the remainder of the trip, as I sit and type this post it is still swollen and purple. 

19W10 after leaving Saddle Skirt
Open stretch before Borracho Spring
Borracho Spring flowing nicely
At around .2 of a mile beyond borracho Spring and just before the junction with the Agua Blanca and the Western drainage coming off Cobblestone Mountain (our route) is where the old trail climbed high above on the eastern bank over a series of rises and through notches to leave the Agua Blanca Behind. The climb is quite arduous and if it wasn't for an old horse shoe I found up there it would be hard to believe that a trail ever existed in such a precipitous setting. This is a key point in the route and one you must be mindful of if attempting the journey. Trying to continue along the Agua Blanca from here will lead you in the wrong direction and climbing out much later than this will be difficult. 


Climbing loose rock up and away from the Agua Blanca 
Reece taking a breather or just perhaps admiring the views.
Night one Camp (N34.61486° W118.89582°)
 above the creek adjacent to where I believe Campo Borracho once was or possibly still is. 
Thoroughly exhausted after reaching what should have been Borracho Camp and not immediately finding anything we chose the flat pictured above. As I mentioned previously it was about 7pm and the group had been through enough for one day. While Paul and Reece began to set up camp Kim and Myself dropped pack and attempted one more search of the area for the historic Campo Borracho site but once  again came up empty handed. From Kim's recollection the Day Fire had completely changed the landscape. The canyon is walled in with thick brush and most spots nearer the water with any flat space are completely overgrown making them damn hard to inspect. knowing there was not much more we could accomplish before dark we resolved to continue the hunt in the morning. 

Here's what ones working with trying to navigate Borracho. Somewhere in a mess like this lies those Ice Can Stoves. 
Plenty of water most of the way to the Cobblestone Saddle.
Brush for days
The second day's plans were even more ambitious than the first. Find Borracho on the way up to Cobblestone Spring Camp and spend night two near or at Halfway Spring. On paper this looks doable, however knowing what we know now of the current field conditions makes this notion  just laughable. Day two once again proved to be painfully slow going. We did not find Borracho proper. Is my search over? The answer to that question is hell no. I will return once I can again park at the upper Buck Creek Trailhead and drop down the old 19W12 connector. I'll spend a couple nights with some good help and the right tools and Campo Borracho unless completely destroyed will again show herself. 

Working our way up toward the saddle.
Looking back down toward Borracho from the Cobblestone Saddle.
Busted Junction sign at the Saddle. 
After hours of grueling work we finally reached the Cobblestone Saddle. The worst was over. I ain't gonna lie the stretch from Ant Camp to here is straight brutal. By now we were way behind schedule and the realization that we were not gonna make Halfway Spring this day was beginning to set in. All thoughts from this point on were of the hopes that Cobblestone Spring Camp would be flowing or else it was going to be a long and perhaps thirsty night. 

In route to Cobblestone Spring Camp

From the Saddle everything opens up and a well defined use trail leads you toward the Summit of Cobblestone. Being a Sierra Club HPS hike this section of trail still see's a fair amount of use. There are two practical ways you can reach Cobblestone Camp the first being break from the Summit route .4 of a mile from the saddle and follow 18W03 Southeast across the Northern flanks of the mountain as we did. Washed out sections here will require a bit higher traverse than the original trail followed. Or go ahead and push to the Summit first then traverse the ridge southeast and drop down into the camp. A drop in from above will need to be done before being directly above the camp to avoid walls of impenetrable brush that marks the camps eastern and Southern borders. After seeing the camp and staying the night I was actually quite pleased we were not able to push further. I rarely use the L word but hey I LOVED Cobblestone Spring Camp. Being 6000 feet up on that mountain in such a picturesque setting was an unforgettable moment and a reminder of just how special the Los Padres can be. 

                                 


Jeez that old cistern has seen better days
One would be hard-pressed to find a better hiking mate than KC.
1 of 3 Ice Can stoves 
I'm sure you knew it was coming. This is now site #6 of the blue cans with a cool sticker and a 25$ REI gift card.

Plenty of tent space here with 3 separate flats. Camp Coordinates - (N34.60767° W118.85682°)
Middle flat that Reece and I occupied.
Path from Camp to the Spring Box
Swapping stories
Sunrise From Cobblestone Spring Camp
You know that old saying if you were a fly on the wall, well listing to our day 3 plans one might be thinking do you guys ever learn ? Again a big bold ambitious agenda that would get us back on track by reaching Log Cabin Camp or perhaps maybe even a bit further. After saying our goodbyes to Cobblestone Spring we loaded up and began the steep climb out of camp and up to the ridge top. Forget about attempting to follow the old trail here on a more gradual accent, unless you want to be crawling on your hands and knees through god awful thick, prickly stuff. The best open path is almost straight up actually better yet at a slight angle pointing back toward the summit. You will gain approximately 700 feet elevation in a half mile. 

A look down on Cobblestone Spring Camp
View from the top & the next ridge line decent.
Aside from the Camp I think I speak for the rest of the group when I say the Cobblestone Ridge decent from near the peak until dropping off into Halfway Spring was the highlight of the trip. Plenty of the old tread is still visible and the views up there are phenomenal. Surprisingly it is quite open and easily navigated. Prominent features scream out to the trained eye, it really is a unique and wild perspective you wont get anywhere else. If there is one thing from this write up that makes your bucket list I do suggest an exploration of this ridge be it.

Series of meadows that can be found along the abandoned Bucksnort Spring Route through the Condor Sanctuary to the Agua Blanca.
Whiteacre in the distance
Potholes/Devil's Potrero area

Very odd finding this lone Ice Can Stove on the Cobblestone Ridge. Coordinates- N34.59080° W118.83663°
One location with several metal can remains from what may have been an old hunters camp on the ridge. Coordinates- N34.59007° W118.82734°
Not much further past the metal cans is where we began our decent into Halfway Spring. This section is a bit confusing. The old trail will lead you off the ridge top and around the northeastern side of a high rise before returning back to the same line. The brush is bad on this skirt around and unless your carrying a much older map and or following a predetermined route on your phone or gps unit there are no clues a trail ever once existed. As you continue the decent you'll again leave the current ridge line for a more northern one that will drop you in closer to the Spring. If none of that makes much sense just download my GPS track and or KMZ file and you'll see what I mean. Essentially you can drop in anywhere you want, the main Halfway drainage is to your left (if coming downhill) however some places will be far better than others. There is no easy path through this drainage most who try will be confined to the creek bed experiencing a Poisson oak scene that can only be described as something straight from a horror film. The farther from the Spring the easier it does get if that's any consolation.

Planning our route down into Halfway Spring
Halfway Spring down in the cluster of trees
Waterfall just downstream of the Spring
Thick vegetation in here
A more navigable section
Climbing out of the Halfway Drainage.
It was exhausting searching around Halfway and we burned a lot of precious time, again as the theme goes we had fallen way behind schedule. Unfortunately we found no evidence of the old camp. That doesn't mean it isn't there though. By no means were we able to complete a thorough investigation of the whole area. As was the case with borracho more time in this one place would be needed. I will commit to going back again but next round will be up from Piru with 2 nights in the Halfway drainage. After everything we had been through thus far it was decided we would spend our next night at Ellis Apiary then the following morning exit Piru and catch a ride back to the Dough Flat Trailhead instead up hiking up the Agua Blanca. There were several reasons for this with the main one being how far behind we had gotten followed by how worked we were at this point. Right out the gate it was rough and it stayed that way. Oftentimes I am guilty of making things sound easier than they actually were so I want to be clear here that this was damn tough. If your thinking of following in our footsteps be warned your navigation skills should be honed like a fine edge and your pain tolerance high. 

Looking down on Piru Creek and Ellis Apiary.
The climb out of Halfway is nasty but  you need to get back on the ridge. We choose a spot very near where the old trail would have climbed out (now washed out). From our exit point it's about .5 of a mile further along to where 18W03 originally dropped into Turtle Canyon. I noted the location on the map. We choose not to drop in here and just continue along the ridge top and I suggest you do the same. That Turtle Canyon drop in looked treacherous and we wanted no part of it. Essentially the ridge detour will drop you steeply in the same spot on Piru just before Ellis Apiary as would have the exit from Turtle. 

Ellis Apiary Trail Camp

My heart sank once arriving at Ellis Apiary. I was just telling the guys how nice the Camp looked after my recent clean up of it back in September. You can view the previous post here. What a disaster, the place is completely overgrown already. Dammit everything grows back so fast around here. All that hard work and it appeared nothing was ever done. Obviously this Camp will need a dedicated group making multiple trips per year to keep it in good shape. My sense is that wont ever happen but you never know with the Potholes Trailhead open maybe more people will come. Not only was the brush high but the place was super buggy. We elected to stay the night on the open pebble beach section adjacent the camp nearer the creek. To add to the list of memorable moments rain dumped on us the next morning. The one night Reece decided not use his rain fly of course. A check of weather before we left hinted at a slight chance of rain Tuesday morning this was only Monday. He had all his belongings nicely stacked near his tent and was sleeping very peacefully in the downpour. When I awoke I said "hey Reece it's raining" never in my life have I seen him move so fast, he sprung out of that tent from his slumber like a cheetah on a gazelle cursing his unfortunate luck. Kim's bivy lost it's waterproofing years ago by this time he had already drug his stuff under a tree and was most likely chuckling at the spectacle taking place North his little site. 

 Our Camp on "Pebble Beach" Adjacent Ellis Apiary

Somewhere between 5-6 is the approximate Mileage from Ellis Apiary to the new Pothole Trailhead add another 5 miles to that if your forced to walk all the way to the Lake Piru main entrance as we were. Damn you Covid-19. The trail from Ellis to where the old road cut leads you out of the creek toward the Agua Blanca junction is no longer maintained. Yes there are a lot of shitty spots that being said a huge portion is still viable (mostly on the west bank). Far less time needs to be spent drudging up the creek bed than I think most would suspect. 

Piru Creek

Blue Point Caves
New Potholes Trailhead (N34.51168° W118.76287°)

According to my old, cracked, touch screen, pain in the ass Garmin etrex that I will no longer be using (I finally upgraded) our total mileage was about 33. After all the time spent dreaming of Borracho and Halfway It's still a surreal feeling that we actually accomplished the trek. Not all the event details were spelled out in this post. I mean sometimes what happens in the backcountry should stay in the backcountry. Cheers to my fellow mates that made the journey alongside me. Kim your earlier experiences and beta proved invaluable, thanks my friend for seeing this one through.