Showing posts with label Dick Smith Wilderness. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Dick Smith Wilderness. Show all posts

Tuesday, December 29, 2020

Rancho Nuevo Trail (24W03)


 Been promising my pal Mark a Wilderness Camp survey of Upper Rancho for months, probably a year. At risk of soon looking like a bum who cant keep his word I wanted to get this done before the gate slammed shut on the 2020 season. By a stroke of good luck my friends and I managed to get out there in the nick of time, beating the closure by a single day and thus keeping my reputation somewhat intact. 



I doubt anyone who might actually read this rag isn't already familiar with Rancho Nuevo Trail in the Mighty Dick Smith Wilderness but by chance if that is you Bob Burtness describes "Rancho Nuevo as meaning new camp or new ranch in Spanish" also stating "this camp was so named because at one time the land here became "the new ranch" for part of the Reyes family" (Referring to the now drive up car camp from which the trail takes off in a westward direction following Rancho Nuevo Creek).

Lord, Wallis and Ward ready for take off. Yes I know these selfies might seem cheesy, however I realized after we lost our pal Hnatiw that I wished I had taken more group shots. 

It was a cold and cloudy morning we met at the dirt turn out just off Hwy 33 which starts Road 7N04 and provides accesses to Rancho Nuevo and Tinta (N34° 42.400' W119° 22.673'). From there we jumped into Josh's jeep to cross the Cuyama and ride the next few miles to the trailhead. (High clearance 4WD/AWD recommended). It's great that Calduc offered up the jeep as I get in trouble every time I bring my wife's Highlander home beat up with more of  what Craig calls "Mohave Pinstripes."   




Last July 2019, volunteers (my self included) were out here working the lower portion of Rancho Nuevo. We cleared brush and removed hazard trees up until the junction with Deal Trail at just under two miles. This portion seemed to be in just as good if not better shape than we left it. Being this late in the season most of the tall grasses have died back allowing for even easier travel. Through here the canyon is quite picturesque, large oaks and firs are aplenty with the main attraction (I find) being the elaborate wind eroded rock formations. 

Deal Junction Camp (N34° 41.366' W119° 24.927')

As the name would imply Deal Junction Camp sits right at the Rancho Nuevo/Deal Trail intersection. This former cowboy camp is a small site with single steel grate stove and not much shade. Upon arrival water adjacent the camp was mostly stagnant with a small trickle. Though I reckon that's not the case now after last nights big storm. 



The sign at the camp directs you to stay to your right to continue to follow 24W03 upstream mostly staying very near the creek bed as the trail crosses back and forth along the North and South banks. From Deal Junction its approximately another 3.6 miles before reaching Upper Rancho Nuevo Camp. 




After reading the most current reports on HLP  I was expecting the trail after Deal to be worse off than it actually was. Sure it could use some brushing and work on the crossing's, also there are a handful of downed trees across the trail (all easy to circumnavigate) but for the most part it was easy to follow. I'd say the most annoying thing was all that Rose Thorn surrounding the camp. With a little love next season from volunteers this trail could easily be pristine. 

URN sign install courtesy Troop 111. Thanks men great work.
Upper Rancho Nuevo Camp (N34° 41.170' W119° 27.640')


We wasted no time getting to the Upper Camp, mostly because from the moment we stepped out of the jeep rain had been coming down. I of course along with Jason forgot our rain jackets so by the time we rolled into URN I'd say the group was pretty soggy and pathetic looking. Good times though. Upper Rancho like Deal junction is another small site with two stoves. A steel grill grate and very weathered Ice Can. Large Sandstone formations surround the camp and the views up canyon are wonderful. 



In 1974 Dennis Gagnon writes "Upper Rancho Nuevo is nestled deep in a remote canyon on a streamside flat, this camp is flanked by steep canyon walls where big cone spruce, pinon pine, yucca, and chaparral find their home. Water is available in the wet months, when the surrounding peaks are frequently dusted by winter snows. Facilities are limited to four stoves and two tables.

This we know of the former facilities is no longer the case as years of fire, flood and lack of maintenance have taken it's toll. Nonetheless it's still a nice little camp (when it's not getting trashed by hunters) with great access to explore even fur beyond into the less traveled, wildly remote Dick Smith Wilderness. 



Lucky for us after we had just about finished all our business at URN the sun broke through the clouds reveling beautiful blue skies and ensuring dry weather for the remainder of the trip. Happy with the prospects of no more rain we decided not to head straight back, instead opting to poke around deal canyon for a bit. Glad we did as the improved lighting provided limitless good photo opportunities. Attached below the map is a one way GPX and KMZ file (from the trailhead to Upper Rancho Nuevo Camp) available for download. Though not sure it will do you much good until next year as the gate for the season closed yesterday December 28th. Anyone wishing to visit now will either have to walk the extra miles from the gate and or make the longer haul up from Bear Canyon or the Deal-Connector.

Deal Canyon



Wednesday, January 22, 2020

Don Victor & Pine Canyon

Don Victor Valley From 6N11

Over Martin Luther King weekend myself and Jeff Wright set out on an ambitious quest to find and rebuild Don Victor and Pine Canyon Camps. We Parked the truck at the dirt turn out for the Closed Potrero Seco Road 6N03 off  Hwy 33, adjacent Pine Mountain Ridge Road. Bikes and Packs heavily loaded down with the necessary backpacking essentials (mostly whiskey and beer) trail tools and some food. At approximately 8am we saddled up and navigated through the locked gate to make our way along Potrero Seco.

Bikes rigged up and ready
Locked Gate at Potrero Seco 
Icy Road with heavy packs, what could possibly go wrong 

Besides a little snow and the customary annoyance of ups and downs one encounters along most fire roads the first 3.5 miles to Potrero Seco Camp was pretty uneventful, because of the weight on our backs it became much easier to ride the downhills and walk the uphills. Slow and steady was the name of the game.

Potrero Seco camp

Potrero Seco (Dry Meadow) was once the home of a Forest Service Ranger Station, the current camp has a couple sites with Picnic tables however is rarely used these days as the road leading in has been closed to public use for almost a decade. The site is still frequented by day hikers, mountain bikers and most likely the nearby landowners on the edge of the Potrero. There is no water available at the Camp. On the way out north of  Camp along 6N03 we chatted a bit with Jerome, one of the caretakers of the private inholdings. Super cool guy. Right after leaving we came upon the deer pictured below, one of them actually started charging straight at us, after cutting half the distance decided to take off in another direction. Never seen them do that before. 

Private inholding east of Camp
Wildlife near Potrero Seco Camp
Thus Far everything was going as planned and without hitch, that was about to change. I would estimate about a mile after leaving Potrero Seco is when the nightmare began. We ran smack into some wet sections of road that had some of the worst clay mud you could image. Every step, sticky mounds would pile up on your feet, giving the impression of trying to walk with bricks attached to your shoes and to make matters worse it completely clogged up the tires and brakes on the bikes. No joke you could not roll through it if you wanted to, the tires were deadlocked. This became a battle of  trying to drag and carry the bikes. With a 55 pound pack and tools strapped on this is no easy feat. I can take a massive amount of pain and suffering but this almost got the better of me. I couldn't fathom trying to go the next 6 or 7 miles through this shit. Had it continued much longer I swear I would have quit and went home. Luckily the road went dry again closer to the Don Victor turn off, but by this time we were completely drained. I apologized to Jeff for once again putting him through the ringer, my adventures are never easy. "Well Jeff you just never know what your gonna encounter being on trips with me." He replied jokingly "you would think I would've learned by now" followed by "it's all good Chris a little suffering is good every now and then." Jeff's a team player and tough dude. I say unless you know these roads are dry might, want to avoid the bikes and just make the long hike on foot. 

Me really pissed off trying to free mud from my bike's tires
At just about the 5 mile mark to your right you will come upon another locked gate, this is the junction with the old Don Victor Fire Trail 6N11. Leave Potrero Seco and pass through the gate to start the descent into Don Victor Valley. Elevation at this point 5156 feet. While the old road tread is holding up nicely (besides brushing needed and a few downed trees after the Mono Crossing) the next 6.5 miles are a steep series of ups and downs with the majority being down. Unless you are traveling much lighter than we were or are an elite mountain biker (which I'm far from) this is just downright difficult with a bike especially on the return. (All uphill)  Personally I will never ride in here again it's just to much work for a guy that rides a few times a year. My feet are my preferred method of travel.

Don Victor Fire Trail 6N11
Jeff taking in those views down into Don Victor Valley
Originally we had planned to try and ride as far down as the Mono Creek Crossing which would have put us 1.3 miles from Don Victor Camp. That plan went out the window as we once again encountered the hellish mud. Instead of trying to fight it again, 1.2 miles from the Mono we unstrapped the tools and stashed the bikes in the bushes to continue on foot the rest of the way and it's a good thing we did as we were slipping and sliding through sections down that mountain that would have been ugly on the bikes. The mud sucks but the the views down Canyon are excellent, providing a real unique perspective of the Valley below. Short of the creek crossing to your right the sign post pictured below marks the old Potrero Seco/Don Victor Trail 25W04. Taking this route would lead you back up and around to the Potrero Seco Car Camp. While there may be some good sections intact I image the majority would be an exercise in bushwhacking. 

Lone metal post marking 25W04
Couple of downed trees after the Mono Creek crossing

Water was flowing through the crossing, not a huge amount but plenty to filter from if needed. From this point on sporadic sections of the road get a bit brushier and some work is needed to clear the downed trees. After what seemed like a grueling 11.5 miles we finally arrived at a disastrous Don Victor Camp. Remnants of a fire ring, some tossed about corrugated steel panels and a small reflector nailed to a tree marked the spot. The Camp was completely consumed in brush and unrecognizable. You couldn't drop a tent down if you wanted to. Upon first glance I thought dear god our work today has only just begun. Camp coordinates  N34° 40' 12.0" W119° 31' 08.5" Check out the before photos below.

Don Victor Camp upon arrival

There's a small rock fire ring buried in there


Knowing we were gonna have to get moving we dropped packs slammed a beer and went to work. Two dudes, one McLeod, a shovel, small silky boy hand saw, big hearts and hours of grueling back breaking labor and Don Victor would once again rise up to be a damn fine place to spend the night. We cleared a large portion of the flat, rebuilt a bigger much nicer fire ring, cut dead wood to create nice benches around the fire pit and inch by inch rolled a large rock up the road that now makes a hell of good seat. Jeff laid out the metal alongside the tree to give it a rustic look, we left a brand new shovel and Mcleod and DV is also now #5 of the Lost In The Los Padres site register cans complete with a $25 dollar Rei gift card. I'm proud of the work we did and very thankful for Jeff's help, couldn't have done it without you brother. Photos below as we progressed through. 

New improved Fire Ring
Rustic look with the corrugated steel panels
Jeff Searching for kindling
Majority of the work done, getting ready to embrace the cold
What a difference



DV is now site #5 of the Lost In The Los Padres Site Register Cans complete with $25 dollar REI Gift card for the next lucky visitor to claim.
Even with all the work we did there is still more that can be done. The Camp still needs a path cleared to the Creek. Though on this trip there was no water flowing directly behind it. 200 feet back down the road at the creek crossing was a small scummy pool that kept our beers cold and us hydrated. From maps I gather it may have been part of the nearby spring. The water in Don Victor Valley is said to have a high mineral content and not likely good to drink during the summer months. Temps in the Canyon dropped to freezing, Jeff awoke Sunday morning with ice built up on his beanie that he wore all night. I said "hey Jeff did you leave your beanie outside"? he replied "no I've been wearing it all night why" ? Oh just wondering because there is snow on your head, we both laughed Saturday was a cold night.

Pulling the last beer from the ice chest pond
 Very near the Camp was an old homestead owned by Don Victor in the early 1900's. Originally I thought the cabin was on the actual campsite however seeing old photos from the LPFA archives it appears it was actually a little further north on the flat. Wise counsel confirmed for me that it could have been very possible the cabin and the public camp may have coexisted together at the time. Hence why the sites were not right on top of each other.

Cabin on the Don Victor August 1908 photo credit LPFA archives
Photo I took from very near the same location January 19th 2020

Don Victor and Maria (Ortega). The Don Victor Valley was named for him. He drowned crossing the Ventura River. Photo credit LPFA Archives
Freaud's homestead cabin Don Victor Valley. Ralph Hartman. Photo credit LPFA archives.
We woke early Sunday morning, after coffee and breakfast before heading up Pine Canyon we decided to do some further exploration of the Valley. Approximately 330 feet Northeast of the Camp we found the Don Victor fire Trail Sign. Continuing along that same line .1 of a mile further we came across the remains of an old Artesian well with the spigot broken off. From Back at the camp it is .1 of a mile Northwest to the start of the Don Victor Trail 25W03 where we caught sight of the Don Victor Valley/Malduce Station sign. See photos below. 

Sign Coordinates: N34° 40' 14.6" W119° 31' 06.3"
Artesian Well coordinates: N34° 40' 19.6" W119° 31' 02.1"
Sign Coordinates: N34° 40' 18.3" W119° 31' 13.6"
After all we'd been through so far I honestly figured getting up Pine Canyon would be a walk in the park for a pair of experienced trail hounds such as us. Boy was I mistaken. We spent all day Sunday fully engulfed in brush. A bloody bushwhack ensued. Whatever trail/footpath that once was is gone. Miles of impenetrable brush. We tried are best to stay on and survey the trail but it proved futile. We scoured high and low for better routes but ultimately just ended up trudging right up the dry creek bed (when it wasn't walled in) as often as we could. To make matters worse Pine Canyon was dry no flowing water besides one patch about a mile in that was glowing orange, I never seen such disgusting water. It had a greasy oil looking slick on top like it was laced with chemicals. In a survival situation I'd honestly drink my own piss before I would go anywhere near whatever that was. We did eventually arrive at Pine Canyon Flat where the old camp should have been, however found zero evidence that it ever existed. 
Some thick brush down in there

Pine Canyon
Pine Canyon Flat

There's no doubt this site would make for a great camp and I could see why the location was chosen. Especially with Jackson Five Falls right around the bend. In the end we decided to keep it wild. No sense in disturbing nature here, we still need a few wild places and for that matter I guarantee there ain't many people gonna come up here anyways. Those hardy folks that do won't need any fancy camp set up. 

Old hunting Camp in Pine Canyon. Chester Hartman, Lowie Hartman, Ralph Hartman, Will hartman, Frenchi (Frank Feraud). Photo Credit LPFA Archives.
Our exit from Pine Canyon was definitely smoother than the entrance. Though for some strange reason I ended up getting 2 leg cramps, one in each leg. I rarely ever get leg cramps, it was annoying but not the end of the world, nothing that a couple shots of whiskey wouldn't cure once we returned to Don Victor. We pushed on. Before dinner we put some last minute finishing touches on the camp, and pretty much hit the sack early.

Modern Times Hazy Pilsner

So long Don Victor until we meet again. 
Monday morning the clouds were coming in and the wind was picking up. We wasted no time gathering our goods and hitting the trail. As would be expected it was harder going out than coming in. Many uphill slogs, coupled with more mud patches made for an interesting trek. 2 miles before reaching the truck I tried lifting my bike out of some stuck mud and pulled a muscle in my back. This here old timer took a beating on this one, but you know what deep down I loved every second of it. I'll take a bashing in the sticks over a day in the city any time. Our entire journey consisted of just under 30 miles of travel. Below the map my GPS track and google earth KMZ file are available for download should you like to give it a look. Shout out to BC and CC for the tireless amount of intel you always provide me and LT for donating the tools for this trip, Some fine gentlemen you all are.