Monday, November 25, 2019

TopaTopa Lodge Camp with a Summit of Hines & Cream Puff

TopaTopa Lodge Camp

Okay it has been entirely to long since my last post. Work, family functions and a few other things have had me sidelined for a bit. I thought it would be nice to come back with a bang so here's a big one that's been on the list for sometime now. What's that you ask ? Well how about another forgotten Camp in the LP, would you expect anything less from me ?

From my data collection I have not seen TopaTopa Lodge Camp appear on LP Recreation Maps since 1972. (Though I am missing some years) I imagine sometime very shortly after that it was removed from the Forest Service inventory. The Camp did make appearances in some of the earlier maps dating back to the 30's. Notice it pictured above in the 1969 edition. (Click image to enlarge). According to some of Craig R Carey's earlier writings the Camp was once a staple destination for local Santa Paula and Ojai folks that frequented the Last Chance Trail. While there are multiple ways to reach the Lodge, with daylight being scarce now, if we were going to have any chance at taking down Hines and Cream Puff in the same day as well our best option was gonna be from Nordhoff Ridge Road. Driving up this route from Rose Valley Campground requires a permit from the Forest Service. You can pick them up at the Ojai Ranger district office and reservations can be made up to 2 weeks in advance. 4 wheel drive is required. The Locked Gate is accessed from Camp Site #2


Rose Valley Campground
From my recollection it was about a 10 mile drive along the steep, narrow, rutted dirt road to reach the far Eastern Gate that begins the Red Reef Trail, it was here we parked the car to start our proposed loop. When driving up from Rose Valley keep to the left at the multiple junctions, within a half mile from the destination you Pass Elder Camp to your left. While the road is in fairly good shape the beginning climb is the worst, I had to make two attempts at one particular bad section. (basically a well shit that didn't work lets back down this spot and try again).

Elder Camp

Park in the turn out here adjacent the gate.
Notice the sign above referring to the junction with Last Chance Trail in 2.5 miles, I don't think that is actually historically correct. That junction in reality was 21W20 the short Connector trail that dropped down between Hines and Cream Puff to gain the Last Chance Trail. Technically speaking from this location the LC Trail starts along Red Reef much closer. (approximately one mile in where the trail climbs to the northern terminus of the bluff.  If none of that made sense scroll back up and take another look at the 69 map. Ignoring the Red Reef trail for now walk back down the road from which you just came in a very short .1 of a mile there is a well defined spur trail that climbs up to the southern end of the Bluff. You gain about 900 feet elevation in .8 of a mile to reach the Top. While not far distance wise it definitely gets the blood pumping and takes the chill off the morning air. Once atop the Bluff take few minutes have a seat on the stone bench and enjoy the incredible views.


Great lookout from TopaTopa bluff
Once you have had your fill continue east along the Bluff in less than 500 feet hang a hard right south and onto the Last Chance Trail 21W09. No sign marks the trail but it is fairly easy to make out. I can tell you right now I was expecting far worse than what we got. For a trail that receives little to no maintenance the first 1 to 1.5 miles was pretty uneventful and easy to follow. Yeah there is some tight brushy spots but nothing really to complain over, bonus you get a real nice perspective of upper Santa Paula Canyon, Hines, and the Topa Topa Ridge toward the tower.


How beautiful is that ?
Along that first 2 mile section I was pondering why more people don't attempt this loop considering the current trail conditions, eventually I got the answer. That smooth sailing I spoke about earlier  ends in a brush fight for the last 1 to 1.5 miles into TopaTopa Lodge. You can pick up bits and pieces of the old trail however it's basically a pick your own path through thick Ceanothus, Manzanita, Chamise Etc, Etc. I'm sure you get the point after popping out and into the Lodge my face looked like I had been in a cat fight. 

Jeff and Reece coming down one of the nicer of the bad sections
There are 3 main tributaries you will cross that come together up here to form the Main Santa Paula Canyon watershed, all 3 had enough water to filter with the best water coming from the Connector just North of Topa Topa Lodge. I have included the waypoints on the google map below and as well in the downloadable GPX & KMZ files.


Arriving at the Lodge we really didn't need to do much the Camp was in pretty good shape. We stood up one of the 2 Ice Can stoves that had fallen over and left a brand new camp shovel, courtesy of LT. I wasn't given permission to use his full name but you know who you are and thanks brother for the generous tool donation. If you're reading this lets get out there soon. The Camp has a nice sized fire ring with cooking grate. While maybe not the most glamourous of places as it sits in a rather exposed location the condition of those Large stoves are amazing, I can never get enough of these forgotten Camps. If you haven't been I suggest you go.


Me showcasing the new shovel that Reece lugged into Camp
Great view from Camp looking down the canyon
Finding the Camp was great but the day was far from over we still had 3 big uphill slogs to attend to before we could rest our feet back at the car, with the first segment being to continue the last 1/4 mile along LC to meet up with and climb the last mile (give or take) of 21W20 back up and onto Red Reef . In a nutshell from the Lodge you can figure about 1200 Feet elevation Gain up to the ridge. Getting over to the connector from the lodge is a little tricky, if you stick to the old trail proper it will weave you rather nicely through the thick surrounding brush. If you don't, well then plan on a lot of unnecessary bushwacking. Surprisingly the Camp is well hidden, you can't really see it at all from the connector, which would explain why more folks dont bother trying to attempt a visit. Really the best view down on the Lodge from the top is from Cream Puff see photo below, brown flat patch in the middle is TopaTopa Lodge Camp.

View down from Cream Puff onto TopaTopa Lodge
Looking east at Hines Peak from 21W20
View from Red Reef looking back down 21W20
Again here as before if you are diligent in following the old trail climbing the connector proper is not to bad. I will say it is easier to access the lodge from the North rather than from below. I suspect those upper trails get much more use. From the ridge we hung a right headed North east and in less than a Half mile we were at the Sign pictured below which is precisely where you want to begin climbing the spine of Hines.

Front view
Back Side looking better than the front.
The trek up Hines is short but steep. You reach the top only to find out it is a false Summit and you must go a little farther. The Views from the summit proper are not as good in my opinion as the false one as they are more obstructed by brush. Make your way to the outskirts and you will find much better photo opportunities. A summit register can awaits as does a USGS Survey marker. I believe this one is a sierra club HPS Hike.

Hines Summit Register

Down there lies the Sespe

Killer view down Santa Paula Canyon & SP Peak
Reece skiing down hines
After Hines we stopped for a bit of lunch out of the wind and recharged our batteries up next would be Cream Puff. We now preceded west along Red Reef back toward the connector this time passing it. In .7 of a mile we reached the entry for Cream Puff. As you can see from the photo below the hike up is similar to Hines a little shorter but definitely no less steep.


Cream Puff is an SVS Peak (Seldom Visited Site). From my knowledge John Wilson (Pine Tar) and crew placed 10 of these SVS register cans in remote corners of the Los Padres. Last one I encountered was atop Cedar Peak along the Thorn Point Ridge. This Summit has no name on maps. Why it got the label Cream Puff I have no clue, but I bet my friend Kim Coakley knows.  

Views from Cream Puff

Looking back down onto the Red Reef

Back down off CP we just continued westward the last few easy miles of  RR 21W08 to complete the loop back to the Car. Not the longest of days with the total mileage being only 10, however definitely well earned. The register on Cream Puff talks about completing the Topa Triple, where one starts hiking from the bottom of Sisar road up to the bluff then onto Hines and Cream Puff. So maybe one can consider this the Topa Quad, we didn't hike up Sisar but we added the Lodge and extra miles along the LC to make up for it. 










Tuesday, September 24, 2019

Cienega & Bluff Camps

Cienega the granddaddy of  backcountry Camps 
With temperature forecasts to be in the mid to high 80's something big this weekend was to be in order. I went back and forth for several days over the destination. Bluff and Cienega have been hovering damn near the top of our list for long enough, it was past time to check these off. (Click on any photo to enlarge)

Getting ready to head up Timber Canyon
Reece and I met up early Friday morning at Thomas Aquinas College in Santa Paula where we would drop my car at the new Trailhead parking. We then hitched a ride to the beginning of Timber Canyon Trail 20W16. For those interested I have touched on this route in the past in more detail here at https://christopherplord.blogspot.com/2019/04/santa-paula-peak-first-attempt-at-san.html. Unfortunately if you do not have permission and the gate codes to access Timber Canyon you will need to start and end at the college as Timber is on private property. To make it fair and give folks without access that want to follow our track a chance we did exit the East Fork which is accessible to all. 

Looking up toward Santa Paula Peak
One of the nicer open sections
To be fully honest I am not a big fan of Timber Cyn. Yes it will get you to Santa Paula Peak much quicker and easier than the East Fork but its hot, dry, steep, exposed, very overgrown and normally full of ticks. (Not a single tick on this trip though for some reason). It took us around 3 hours to reach the Peak, not our fastest time by any means but good considering the circumstances. Being heavily weighted down with backpacking essentials, work tools and whiskey tends to slow ones pace and to make matters worse that damn shovel you see strapped to the back of my pack kept banging me in the head every time it caught on something. 
Simpler times with Hines Peak in the distance

Reece getting a shot with the Chief Peak from Topa Topa Brewing



The views from SP Peak are damn good and definitely worth the 4 mile trek. Once atop we signed the register had a quick snack and some celebratory brewsky's. About now we were high fiveing and thinking the hardest part of today was over. From here it would be all downhill to Cienega. Little did we know how much worse the backside of 20W16 had become. Since visiting Last in April the short 
stretch (about a half mile) from the Peak down to the junction with the ancient San Cayetano 20W15 has imploded with unavoidable Poodle-Dog bush. The trail is quickly rebounding from the Thomas Fire and becoming overgrown. Unless you want the dreaded rash mind your steps through here. 

 The backside of 20W16 looks good upon first glance but beware ahead

The washout is way steeper than it looks
From the Cayetano junction you make a hard left and head downhill toward Cienega. In theory if you stayed on trail it would be just under a mile and half to Camp. The problem is half the trail is gone and badly washed out. At first it starts off pretty good, leading you down into a really beautiful shaded Canyon. It starts getting really bad when you hit the first washout pictured above. This section is much steeper than it looks in the photo and with a heavy pack almost impossible to keep traction. Right away Reece said I'm not crossing that and he began to climb down to try and find a way around it. I said screw it I'm going for it. Half way through I began to slide smacked my knee on a rock and tore a huge hole in my pants. Eventually I was able to stabilize myself and make my way across, but I paid the price. While I wiped up the blood and patched my pants I watched Reece badly struggle, desperately fighting and trying to claw his way back up. I didn't think he was gonna make it, at one point he was saying I may need your help. He did eventually make it but he was worked hard. I remember watching him thinking well shit that looks about as bad as what I went through. After that debacle we continued along the trail however it's not long before it completely ends in rubble. The once switchbacks that take you the rest of the way down are long gone. From here it's a pick your own path through the brush and loose rocks until you get down low enough into the valley and are able to pick up the trail again that leads you into Camp. The recent heavy rains took a big toll.

Main fire ring with heavy duty 6 foot bench. 
Massive 17 foot picnic Table
Nursing my bee stings
Adjustable BBQ Pit, wheel lowers and raises the grill.
Secondary site off the main with fire ring and Ice can stove
I'm gonna show you a bunch of photos of Cienega because it's badass. I love this Camp, this is the king of backcountry sites as far as the Los Padres is concerned. The Camp is situated on a massive flat fully shaded by large oaks. All the spring tributaries were flowing. I noted on the map below 4 different places to fill up water along the edges of the site. The main attraction here besides the insanely awesome location is the 17 foot picnic table and fully height adjustable stone BBQ pit grill. The main fire ring also has a tripod that can be set up to hold one of the many dutch oven pans scattered about the camp, should you like to cook a stew over the flames. There is a small secondary fire ring with Ice can stove to help accommodate a larger group. Probably 99% of the time your gonna have the place all to yourself. Most don't bother to even attempt the journey up here.

Assortment of cookware, shovel blades, a machete 
Curious who appears in that photo, I forgot to take a closer look.
No shortage of good real estate here
Main fire ring
Those two Ice can stoves have seen better days
I stole Red Tailed Reece's Hat. Hell that's gonna be his new nickname going forward

Immediately upon arrival we got to work surveying the Camp and doing an initial cleanup. After we decided to head over to one of the springs to fill up water and wash up. I spotted a nice pool lower off the trail as I made my way down I snapped off a branch in my way and that's when shit hit the fan. Yellow jackets came swarming out a hollowed tree and nailed me multiple times, in the hand, my back and on my face. As a child I was highly allergic to bee stings, so to be on the safe side I keep an EPIpen in my first aid kit for emergencies. I was stung once as an adult many years ago and I did not have a reaction, my doctor said I may have grown out of the allergy, but still to keep the pen just in case. About now I was a bit concerned the thought of possibly having to end the trip early after all that work before even reaching Bluff camp would have been a super bummer. I popped a bunch of benadryl and hoped for the best. In the end I only ended up with minor swelling and no real problems so hopefully that allergy is a thing of the past. 

Lower Section of Trail looking down toward Cienega
We woke early Saturday morning and after breakfast made the steep ascent up to Bluff. If you stick to the old trail proper it is only around 1.5 miles from Cienega. The problem is the lower half is extremely overgrown, its very easy to get off track. We made the mistake of not really trying to follow the old trail in the beginning and we suffered for it. The trail could be 5 feet away and because of the overgrowth you won't see signs of it unless you're being super diligent. A little over halfway on your left you will see large rock formations (pictured below) it's shortly after this that the trail becomes much easier to follow most of the way into Camp. After the brush beating we took going in we made sure to pay better attention going out and stick to the trail. If you download my track included at the bottom, follow our exit path its considerably better than the entry.



Bluff Camp is situated right near the border of the Sespe Wilderness and the Condor Sanctuary. The Camp is walled in by gigantic Sandstone formations that one could spend what seems like an eternity exploring. This here is big bear country and we saw plenty of evidence to prove that. In need of a breathtaking scenic getaway ? I recommend you get here and fast.

Tried to re-create the image of the old sign using a photo courtesy Craig R Carey)
Site all cleaned up, new shovel and nice pile of firewood

#4 Lost In The Los Padres Blue register Can with $25 REI gift card

As is customary we immediately got to work clearing the site and rebuilding the fire ring. A single bench and a few large rocks provide seating around Camp. I saw only a few remnant pieces of the Ice can stove that was once there. The sign was stolen years ago, only a small portion of the post remains. Unfortunately water was not flowing from the tributary that runs adjacent the Camp. We left a brand new shovel and a $25 dollar REI Gift card for the next lucky visitor. (Take the gift card but please leave the shovel) Making this the #4 Lost In The Los Padres blue register can site. (You can read more about those in previous posts). There is a serenity about this camp that I am struggling to find words to describe. The effects of the towering Sandstone features, surrounded by Big Cone Douglas Furs and just the overall remoteness left me almost never wanting to leave. 







From Looking at the Map you can see that we did explore further past the Camp. This was initial recon to find a way to connect Bluff and Last Chance (coming in the future). We stayed until water reserves were starting to run low and then dropped back down to Cienega along the way we found a large boulder that had amazing cell service and a great view so stopped to check in with the family at home. That night Lot's of whiskey was consumed and stories swapped about how great the trip had been thus far. The next morning it would be time to head out.

Follow that Pink Flagging to Cienega
Exit the East Fork Here
The trail that leads out of Cienega and down to the East Fork is in pretty good shape. Someone took the time to hang pink flagging throughout the majority of the route. I have read reports of people coming up the East Fork and missing the turn off to climb to Camp so I wanted to include the photos above showing two different views of what to look for. If you zoom in you can see the pink flagging telling you where to exit. I'm pretty sure if you miss the exit here and keep on up the East Fork you will eventually run into a large waterfall that may force you to turn around. Also Note at this very same location for folks who have dropped in from Cienega DO NOT, I REPEAT DO NOT cross the creek and attempt to follow the old trail down the East Fork that leads you up onto the north bank. Past reports stated it was bad, however other peoples definition of bad and mine usually vary, plus I like to see things for myself. Turns out they were right that shit sucked. I was determined to try and get to the end where it originally dropped back in but after a half mile of that washed out poison oak hell hole we abandoned ship and looked for a safe way to climb back into the Creek bed. So lesson learned just follow the water and you'll be fine.


Beautiful the whole length of the East Fork 
Guerrilla site on the East Fork Located here N34° 26' 48.7" W119° 02' 05.1"
Reece picking his way down the boulder strewn Canyon

Once we dropped back in we were making great time down the creek. I honestly don't see why so many report it as difficult travel. Sure you are rock hopping most of the time but it's not like your crawling on your hands and knees through a jungle. I've been through far worse than the East Fork could present. In fact I found the trail to be quite Lovely. When I said that aloud Reece chuckled and said I never heard anyone ever describe this route as lovely. To each their own right? Surprisingly there are quite a few sections that are still intact save yourself the extra energy and use them. Again pink flagging down through here will lead you the best way. If you have been afraid thus far to tackle this route don't be, its beautiful just mind your steps and go for it. (Note high water flow months may present a more challenging environment so choose travel times wisely). I screwed up just before reaching big Cone Camp and accidentally switched off my GPS. I really wanted to provide the full track including the new Reroute section that was completed in the lower canyon by the college.  You can plan on adding an extra 3.5 miles to exit from Big Cone Camp to the Trailhead. My previous post regarding Last Chance Trail has downloadable tracks from that point if needed. Our total trip was in the neighborhood of 17 miles.

Absolutely Appalled at what's become of Big Cone Camp

This idiot actually put their instagram handle on this

Lower Santa Paula Canyon and the area surrounding the Punch Bowls and Big Cone Camp is a joke. Trash can be found strewn about the trail, diapers floating in the creek. Graffiti all over the rocks. My heart sank when I saw Big Cone. Give people water to swim in and a nice trail and look what you get. The scum of the earth will ruin it. Maybe the Forest Service should shut this tourist attraction down. Those pictures are just a few of the many examples we encountered on the way out. Maybe Thomas Joseph Harper is correct when he says let all the trails be wild again. There is no way in hell the East Fork should ever  be rebuilt I don't want any of these shit bags anywhere near Cienega or Bluff. 


Pictured above is the new and improved way to follow the re route to the Trailhead Parking. Notice they put up a new chain link fence to keep people from passing through the college. With my crazy work life and everything else I have going on I really needed this trip, felt good to be away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life. I have not done near enough overnights this year. Shout out to my boy Reece for always hanging in tough no matter what the adventure. Good Times.